Tues., June 19
Jane took a DNA morning (Do Nothing At All) and slept in. I grabbed a morning game drive, just to see how this terrain differed from Chobe. There all the animals were relatively used to vehicles, being in an animal reserve and all. Here, they're very wary of us. So impala scatter and run, jump--seem to arc across the landscape. I'll never look at a Chevy's impala emblem the same again!
We were actually on the hunt for leopard, even finding some fresh footprints and following them, but nothing panned out. The guides hang their heads over the right side as they drive, looking for any fresh prints, then chatter in their native dialect (one can only imagine what they're REALLY saying...) and we navigate the wilderness on red, sandy roads.
The Zambezi's canals make for great greenery and crocodile viewing. We see a honey badger lying in the shade--reddish eyes seem evilly surveying us. Bushbuck and Waterbuck hid in bushes--the only animals plentiful for us were the impala and baboons. The birds kept us entertained, especially the one that calls "koo KOO a" or as the locals call it, the "work HARD-er" bird.
A double gin/tonic on the shores of the Lower Zambezi in Zambia
Later: I'm trying to get a good spot for wifi reception and Steve tells me it's quite good by his cabin. So I'm treking down toward his place and OMGOMGOMG! There's a freaking elephant rubbing its tush on a brick wall just ahead. I gape. Can't be...but it is. I realize I have the ipad in my hand, toss it down, then fumble so I can utilize the camera on it. I begin filming video and eventually one of the lodge dudes grabs me (stupid tourist) and ushers me back to the lodge itself. I'm giddy with glee over my video and we all enjoy looking at it--until we realize the elephant is making its way THROUGH the camp. We're warned to stay a fair distance away, but the critter ends up spending quite some time directly in front of our tent cabin--note the photos! We have our own personal "Wild Kingdom" for 30 minutes or so before Mr. E (for Elephant) moves on down the way.
Mr. E. just outside our tent.
When all the excitement settles down, we boat to a tributary of the Lower Zambezi and put in for a most relaxing canoe ride, made even better by the fact we just drift--the current takes us. We move to one side or the other depending on the crocs on the edge, or the hippos in the way or, the grumpy looking African buffalo along the shore. Brilliantly colored bee-eaters entertain us and we see them peeking out of their little holes on the red cliffs along the shore. Most relaxing hearing the calls, the grunting of hippo, the water lapping the canoes.
The "work HARD-er" bird begins calling "gin TON-ic," Jane and I think. At the end as we disembark the canoes before returning to the lodge we enjoy "tea" on the shore, but it's actually our double gin/tonic. Tough life, such hard work we're doing here.
Sherry awaits us on the dock as me motor in, dinner follows an hour later, but we again have South African red wine under the stars around the firepit before dinner. Lit by candlelight with the Milky Way above us, the food rivals Crescendo.
Gillian with our sherry as we approach the dock following the canoe ride.
We were actually on the hunt for leopard, even finding some fresh footprints and following them, but nothing panned out. The guides hang their heads over the right side as they drive, looking for any fresh prints, then chatter in their native dialect (one can only imagine what they're REALLY saying...) and we navigate the wilderness on red, sandy roads.
The Zambezi's canals make for great greenery and crocodile viewing. We see a honey badger lying in the shade--reddish eyes seem evilly surveying us. Bushbuck and Waterbuck hid in bushes--the only animals plentiful for us were the impala and baboons. The birds kept us entertained, especially the one that calls "koo KOO a" or as the locals call it, the "work HARD-er" bird.
Mr. E. just outside our tent.
When all the excitement settles down, we boat to a tributary of the Lower Zambezi and put in for a most relaxing canoe ride, made even better by the fact we just drift--the current takes us. We move to one side or the other depending on the crocs on the edge, or the hippos in the way or, the grumpy looking African buffalo along the shore. Brilliantly colored bee-eaters entertain us and we see them peeking out of their little holes on the red cliffs along the shore. Most relaxing hearing the calls, the grunting of hippo, the water lapping the canoes.
This is the life!
Sherry awaits us on the dock as me motor in, dinner follows an hour later, but we again have South African red wine under the stars around the firepit before dinner. Lit by candlelight with the Milky Way above us, the food rivals Crescendo.
