Fellow sojourner Jane and I are taking off with "Anna and Friends" (Anna owns Gardens of Salonica in NE Mpls and takes "friends" on trips to Greece that have somewhat of a culinary focus). We're heading out June 13 (Monday--very early) and plan on being back June 30. Feel free to travel with us--albeit vicariously. I'll try to blog, add photos, etc. as internet connectivity permits. Should be a wonderful adventure and we'd love to have you join us. Avtio!
We snoozed (and coughed and blew our noses) as Paul drove us south to Albert Lea. Colds and three different flights and layovers had pretty much done us in. Think Paul is planning to Lysol his car… The bed I slid into was fresh, cool, and silky...and my pillow--my own pillow! For some reason I really had missed mine on the trip. Must mean I’d better get over that if I want to travel more.
To travel more...yes, I already have my next trip in the works for February, if the world cooperates. Since childhood I’ve always wanted to see the pyramids, and perhaps I will on a trip to Egypt if it pans out.
The first thing I noticed waking up in Minnesota was the cool room. I couldn’t imagine why the air conditioning was on, only to realize it was the morning air wafting into my window that brought the chill. Now that’s different, I thought. Cool air drifting in...not the 40+ C we’d experienced. And another thing--the terrain. In place of rocky hills and grey, what greeted me outside my window was green grass and foliage, and birds all a-twitter. In place of the sea was a calm lake. How I miss the constant whoosh of the waves.
The house and yard were perfectly kept, thanks to you, Ronda, Rod, and Hunter. I mean PERFECTLY in order. Bird feeders filled, plants watered, (and Pete and pets fed and watered)! Some people are worth their weight in gold...
Had to run to the market, of course--as most do when returning from a trip. And I pondered the plain Greek yogurts, noticing for the first time the amount of fat in each. I have no idea the percentage of fat in that we'd eaten, but I’m sure it was hefty. I ended up with a 5% container and a 2% one for the times I’m calorie conscious. My shopping cart also loaded up on tomatoes (so looking forward to those from the garden soon), cucumbers, lemons, and feta. Oh...and watermelon for dessert. So our first dinner home was beef on the grill, potatoes roasted in oil and lemon, Greek salad, watermelon. Sound familiar? Though I did miss the Greek wine, it was delicious.
And now that the clothes are washed and the suitcase is nearly empty, I’ll be getting back into my routine soon, I imagine. Visited Mama Hazel yesterday and she seemed fine--even remembered I’d been traveling. She looked well groomed and content. Carol, I’m sure she appreciated your visits, and I so appreciate your kind attention to her.
So the traveler is home, wanting more...more experiences of life beyond my narrow realm here. I prefer to call myself a traveler, not a tourist. A traveler constantly seeks other cultures and environs, appreciating the differences. Travelers adapt to other countries’ customs, food, ways, not expecting the reverse. They’re life-learners, and I hope I'm counted as one.
Then our turn. Santorini to Athens--about 45 min. door to door. Quite uneventful; we had to claim our bags, get another set of tickets (this time we could check all the way through Philly to Minneapolis), and we had one last coffee as a group before going our own way.
On the plane, Jane and I were lucky enough to have no one next to us, so we each had a bit more room to maneuver during our 10 hour flight to Philly. Though I slept a bit (this cold is giving me fits) I watched three movies: Lady in the Van, Eddie the Eagle, and Whisky, Tango, Foxtrot (Tina Fey). Finally during the last hour of the flight I learned from watching gal to my right with stiletto nails, how to manipulate the screen in front of me--not like an iPad where the pad of the finger changes the screen, but rather a simple tap of the nail. Poor guy in front of me was probably a bit tired of my pressing hard on the screen attached to the back of his seat.
Once we landed, we put our Global Entry classification to use and zipped through customs. Then we had to grab our bags, take them to "re-check," go through security again (though we had TSA Pre-check), and we made our way to the gate to Minneapolis.
But then...nearly an hour taxing the runways of the Philly airport. Goodness, but we taxied, stopped, taxied, stopped. Finally, an hour late, we soared toward Minneapolis.
Son Paul fetched us from the airport and we literally fell into his Mazda for a 75 minute ride home. So good to be home.
Our last day gave us a choice--group activity or chill on the beach? It was a no-brainier for us--the beach and its soothing water beckoned us. After a breakfast of my now well established routine of yogurt, muesli and honey, we grabbed our suits and strolled into the warm, breezy, air and down the dusty path to the town. Paramount before enjoying the water was one last glimpse at the shops that clung to the beach, as barnacles cling to rocks. And though my Minnesota body did try on a few two-piece suits, I have to admit I dismissed them all--choosing instead a more suitable (and actually quite nice) necklace as a momento of the trip.
As with many beaches, one pays to lie on the loungers belonging to beach restaurants and bars, but if one eats there, the privilege is gratis. We decided schmooze our way through a restaurant and greet the waiters who’d served us a day or two before, and remembering us, they let us lounge free of charge. Super--more money for drinks.
Each set of two cushioned loungers was covered by a reed umbrella. These sat near planked walkways that led directly to the beach, a real necessity, since the black pebbly “sand” heats up making even a small trek to the water painful.
Ahhh--the water. So cool, clear, and blue--a refreshing splash if there ever was one. As we walked out into the water and then dove in, waves gently lifted and carried us. Being salt water, it bouyed us; even remaining vertical, we didn’t need much effort to relax and float as we took in the activity, the boats, the shimmers reflecting sky and sun.
Back at our loungers, we summoned the beach waiter, Danny, and I held off ordering my first gin/tonic until just before noon. Figured it was nearly 5 pm somewhere in the world. He quickly understood our gin/tonic routine (learned from Anna after drinking watered-down versions): one glass of ice, one glass of gin, lime and a small bottle of tonic. Then we mixed our own. Perfect.
So we spent much of the day cooling off in the water, resting on the loungers, and eventually ordering beer, fried cheese, a gyro, tatziki and pita bread. The air turned hot, and poor Danny kept us so well supplied with refreshments, that we decided he needed a beer himself; we bought him and he drank it right in our midst, his gratitude quite apparent.
We’d all agreed to meet at 6:30 pm for a venture out to the south end of the island for one last group dinner and sunset. So after showering and with the dread of the packing yet to come, the 10 of us piled into a 9-person van, and Anna drove the winding roads to our “last supper” of the trip.
Here we tried fish, and naturally enjoyed the now group favorite Greek salad. Nothing better than the tasty tomatoes, cucumbers, feta cheese and simple oil/vinegar dressing. Still haven’t taught the green peppers to like me, though, and my tablemates knew by then to take all of those they wanted. None for me, thank you very much.
As 8:40 approached, we could see the sun settling down for a wonderful show on the horizon. And we weren’t disappointed--no cloud bank this night. The afterglow lasted well into the next hour, and our drive back to the hotel was magical as the white buildings shone in the glow and lights illuminated our way.
Before packing, we gathered on the upstairs terrace under a glorious starlit sky to de-brief and reflect on our experience with Anna in Greece. Sipping the last of our wine and liquer, we shared feelings of how fortunate we were to have seen unique slices of the culture--from antiquities and beaches, to food and wine; from cities and villages to the hills and the coast; from mainland Greece to islands as well. Though we touched only a bit of Greece, the taste we enjoyed was delicious--something I’d like to sample again sometime.
My two roomies are still snoozing, wrapped in their sheets as the morning light peeks through the shutters. Before beginning what’s to be our last day in Greece, I just want to take a moment to reflect on the magic those of you on the homefront have performed to make this trip possible for me, and the arduous dance you had to carry out when crisis arose. First of all, Pete--you’re a dear for encouraging me to join Anna’s venture. It takes an incredible life partner to shove me out the door for a festive trip, when this is really the type of sojourn we ourselves had thought we’d take together.
And the support team taking care of Pete, Mama Hazel, and the homefront--you’re incredible. My joy of discovering this part of the world is due to you--your diligence and care. Ronda, Hunter, Rod, Carol and all--I’m so grateful.
And naturally when things became “complicated,” you all pitched in. Love you kids for dropping everything and being there. Jane and I are incredibly blessed to have wonderful offspring who figure out how to navigate the challenges--not that you haven’t had practice. Haha.
Both Jane and I cherish those of you who surround us daily with your love and prayers as we give care to our spouses, and as I care for Mom. This escape has enlivened our spirits, expanded our world knowledge--as well as our bellies! WIll see you soon...
The cold virus that’s been going around finally has hit Jane and me. Sore throat, stuffy nose, etc. Good thing pharmacies here sell Kleenex, cold meds, and nasal spray over the counter. Energy level was a bit lower, but nothing causing us to slow down--oh, except for the heat. It’s back! My morning voice was Lauren Bacall’s--deep and throaty. Sadly that sexy attribute disappeared before noon. Just my luck. Our leftovers from last night’s dinner (chicken, potatoes, wine) Anna turned into a fantastic cold salad--she added tomatoes, parsley, capers, a bit of onion, and dressing of lemon and oil. Delicious! and we ate it on the patio outside our room in the heat of the day. The local beer (Vulcan) helped us ward off the heat.
At 1 pm we set off for a day of discovering the island of Santorini. Our first stop was the pre-historic town of Akrotiri. This Neolithic village grew during the Early Bronze Age and became a harbor town of the Aegean. Then an earthquake destroyed it and in the Middle Bronze Age (2100-1650 BC), it again became of port city of importance, this time to trade beyond the Aegean. Remnants reveal impressive buildings--even a drainage sewer system. In the 17th century BC, another earthquake destroyed the city and was again rebuilt with even more impressive public and private buildings adorned with wall paintings and art. Then a double whammy--another earthquake followed by the eruption of a volcano. The city, buried in pumice and ash, was then preserved until excavation began in 1967.
Second stop was a winery--Gavalas winery. We had a brief tour, sipped wines, bought some, and off to stop number three.
Firas, the capital of Santorini, gave some a major shopping opportunity. We enjoyed the Orthodox Cathedral Church of Candlemas of the Lord and the myriad upscale shops, as well as the touristy vendors. Lots of accessory shopping here--jewelry and eyeglasses, scarves and shoes. Oh--shoes! Couldn’t resist a pair of sandals. When in Greece, one buys Greek sandals--right?
Stop number four took us up-island to Oia. This is the iconic, picturesque village one equates with Santorini. We tried to capture the breathtaking views, and I’ll let you decide whether we did that or not… We’d thought about eating dinner here and watching the sunset from the tiered city, but the crowds and the heat gave us another idea--visit a nearby winery instead. Not a bad choice, as it turned out.
As the tour busses jammed Oia, we drove out of town to the Sigalas winery. They usually grow the grapes close to the ground here to prevent wind damage, but this winery is tucked away a bit so they grow grapes more traditionally as well. We sampled wines, ate delectable courses, and captured the sunset before it escaped into an evening cloud bank.
Another full day under our belts, we headed home as we plotted our adventures for last island day (our last Greece day!!).
An early morning shower got me going, and we were up to the rooftop restaurant around 7. Again, had many choices of food. Somehow my taste is only for fruit and yogurt (and coffee!), at that time of day, but many veggies, cheeses, etc. lined the tables just waiting for us. A quick bus ride to the port and then we dragged our luggage up the gangplank, stored it in the downstairs area near the autos and found our way up to the seating area. I was expecting wooden bench seating, but this was luxury! Somehow we snagged seats (airplane type) at the very front of the boat, giving us the best view possible--the sea in front of us as we chugged along on our 2 hr. voyage to the island of Santorini. The ride was relatively smooth and we napped and relaxed on the way.
After our two-hour ride, we disembarked and found our contact, loaded into a bus, and began our trek up the mountain to the other side and our hotel. The busses and cars that met the ferry made for a near traffic jam.
And who was waiting for me at the hotel? Yippee! My sister Anne had flown in from Rome earlier in the morning and I got a hug after six months of separation. I quickly introduced her around and we trekked off to a pizza place for fantastic beer, salad, pizza and dessert. Absolutely delicious, and Anne got her first “taste” of what it’s like to travel with Anna and Friends.
After a brief nap, we walked to the beach just down the road. This beach has black pebbles and though chilly, the water cooled us from heat of the day--so wonderfully soothing.
Then out for dinner in a relaxing breeze on the beach. We began with gin/tonics and sampled cheeses and hummus, fava dip, chicken and potatoes, and fruit. Again, wonderfully prepared and so very sumptuous. Noticing my clothes seems to be getting a bit more snug. Go figure...
So what’s an early Sunday morning in the hills of Crete like? I’m sitting on our room’s balcony where two chairs and a small round table overlook a narrow street--an alley really. Trumpet vines wind around the railing and bees of all kinds (even those huge bumble ones) are gathering nectar from the orange flowers. So very busy.
In the distance I hear the occasional crowing of roosters. Birds chirp, then scold, and mourning doves hoo-HOOOO-hoo.
The nearby hills are sprinkled atop with green, their lower faces dry and a bit grey now in the June weather. The sun is on its way to peek over the top and warm the cool air. All seems lazy and relaxed here--except for those buzzing bees still peppering the vine.
Later: After a second breakfast feast, we loaded up for Heraklion on the north-central coast. A brief stop at the “green lake” in the gorge of Agios Nikolaos just north of Zaros revealed steep hillsides and a variety of flora and fauna. I enjoyed the wafting smell of sycamores and the gnarly trunks of ancient olive trees. If only they could talk…
Next stop on our trek to the coast was a shop filled with natural products (dried herbs, tinctures) and fossils/finds from 6-8 million years ago. Crete has risen out of the sea, so many sea creatures, including clam, sea urchins, leaves, coral, are preserved in stone form. Fascinating.
Over the hill and down to Heraklion. The capital of Crete, Heraklion has three major universities and is Crete’s fourth largest city. We settled into our hotel, and after several attempts at getting the air conditioner to work (success--finally!), took a brief rest before walking down to the Archeological Museum of Heraklion around the corner. Feels strange to be back in the big city after our quaint hill town.
Some interesting things from the museum:
This Phaistos Disc is important to Cretan writing/script. It has 45 pictorial signs, arranged (in various combinations) into 61 groups and is separated by incised lines--which is presumed to represent words. To date, no one has figured out the contents of the inscriptions (the disc is two-sided), but most evidence points to it being a hymn or a text of a magical character--this is from the early 17 century BC.
I'd never heard of bull leaping, but apparently it was a sporting "event" where one person held the bull's horns, another was at the tail to catch the acrobat who vaulted over a charging bull's horns, onto its back, and then off the bull. Oh my... Men and women of all races took part in this.
The third item is the ring of Minos. This ring impacts one's understanding religious iconography. The image on the bezel summarizes the three levels of epiphany. The goddess is depicted hovering in the air in miniature form, seated on a stepped platform topped with horns of consecration and rowing and steering a boat with a seahorse-head prow. The goddess passes through three natural elements of air, land, and sea, and this passage symbolizes the unification of the mortal world and imposes the message of Minoan power over land and sea; 1250-1400 BC.
A dinner on the hotel's rooftop and tomorrow off the Santorini. Only one more stop remaining!
I’m sure the proprietor will shake his/her head when they see Jane’s and my room here at the guest house. We’ve moved lamps, re-purposed furniture, and when the light bulbs were quite dim or missing, I took the bulbs from another room and supplied ours. Oh well!
Staying in little villages and traveling with Anna in a small group brings one to “off road” places. We’ve met and seen interesting people and terrain. And the regional food? So unique and (mostly) tasty. The water here is pure, often running from fountains in the city. This water is bottled (called Zaro’s) and is widely distributed.
Breakfast consisted of tea first, then coffee, and fruit. Then...the parade began. Everything from a porridge-type of cereal to jellied musk from the grapes, to all sorts of ingredients en croute--like mushrooms, red peppers, apples, chocolate, cheese, etc. Food kept arriving at the table, all traditional and so well prepared. Anna says the farmers would eat the porridge, bread or cheese, and have a glass of red wine before taking off to the fields.
Our focus for the day was a “green” self-sustaining farm. They grow olives, herbs, carob beans, veggies, and have goats, sheep (now grazing in the mountains), chickens, and pigs. We tossed ourselves into the back of a pickup and took a 10 minute ride to a valley not far from Zaros. Along the roadside we had a lesson on the olive trees they grow (three varieties including “wild” olives), and herbs. Then we were introduced to a farm carved into the hillside, which I can call nothing but “charming.” It’s taken the owners years, but the gardens, pens, orchards, and residence have all been crafted with a visible love of the land and a determination to sustain all the gifts the land holds.
After touring the yard and pens (and milking a goat), we sat down to a delicious lunch of tomatoes, cucumbers, tatziki, bread, beets, deep fried zucchini, tender potatoes, carob honey, and fruit.
Me milking a goat
One big pig!
We made cheese from the goat milk and tasted the curds and whey--actually very good! Then we made phyllo dough and after the cheese had drained, rolled out the phyllo, cut it, added a dab of cheese. Then we fried it in oil in the outside kitchen, topped it with honey and cinnamon and...wow! Naturally all this was accompanied by wine and Raki, the regional firewater.
A lovely breeze bathed us in coolness, and we so appreciated the temperature change in the hills. This farm is a testament to living off the land and being passionate about all things “natural.” For instance, the goats are sent out into the olive orchards after the olives are picked. They eat and naturally fertilize the land. They’ve found a distributor for non-GMO seeds, etc. and strive in every way to live in harmony with the land. If you ever get to Crete, don’t miss this experience. Greenpeace has contacted them about making a documentary about their mission.
We packed and again enjoyed a great many choices of items for breakfast, I had several fresh orange juices and my yogurt. Then up to pack and we took off for the central part of Crete, leaving the water behind. This area is high (in the so-called White Mountains) and quite arid, though one sees many olive trees. We left the tall trees in the valley and now see mainly rocky terrain. After 2.5 hours of bumping along rural roads and climbing hills, we made it to Vivi’s place in Zaros--she’s the dynamic proprietress of a restaurant and her family also owns a guest house. She served us a “lite lunch,” complete with bread, tuna salad, Greek salad, pickled beets, stuffed peppers, wine.
Then we found our rooms in the guest house (little apartments really, since there’s a fridge, sink and dishes, etc). Our first room’s air conditioning didn’t work, so we switched up and now...cooler! So wonderful after being out and about to come back to comfort.
We went to Vivi’s place for a cooking lesson--and did we ever learn! We made dessert, fried it and then ate it topped with honey and sesame seeds. Then we stuffed zucchini blossoms, made tatziki, a dessert with phyllo and cream, and stuffed peppers and tomatoes. We’ll eat those tonight.
Then Vivi (a one-person tourism bureau, I think) took us down the street to a gentleman who makes lyres and other traditional stringed pieces like balalaikas. Really fun to see. He was passionate about his work and it was remarkable.
Then on to a weaver and her loom. Exquisite work. And then--a walk around the village with a stop at a widow’s home. She served us her home-made liquor and ice cream. And we loved seeing her house (very traditional--nothing modern). When we asked Vivi if there was any way to compensate our “auntie,” Vivi said that to do so would be an insult. These villagers are so very happy to have visitors. One older gal on the street approached us and voiced how happy she was that we were traveling. She had to stay home with children and grandchildren, or at least that’s what she says she’d told herself. So cute.
As you probably know by now, my FAVORITE thing for breakfast is freshly squeezed orange juice. So what did I find at the hotel breakfast area? A juicing machine to beat all juicing machines! Toss in 2-3 oranges, and you get a great juice. Delicious.
But I ate my favorite breakfast of Greek yogurt, muesli, and honey. There’s no better way to start the day!
On to Elefonissi beach for a fantastic few hours in the blue blue water. Anna says it’s one of the seven top beaches in the world, and we loved the sand, floating, and simply relaxing in the intense sun. I relished the melody of many languages and the tapestry of myriad colors and body types. Again, checked things out and our group of 7 gals had 5 of the 6 ONE-piece suits on the beach. Time for a tankini, at least. Sense a "beach culture" that differs so from my water experience. Long days on the beach with blankets/mats, people of all colors/languages, and activities like kite flying, wind surfing, and snorkeling. No one cares what you look like, but perhaps yourself. It's liberating and relaxing.
The two-lane roads to the beach had wide, paved shoulders and those who drove slower, straddled the right lane, allowing others to pass on the left. Occasionally, when the road narrowed, our driver pulled over, allowing others to pass. A nice gesture for those in the fast lane.
As we drove to the beach, it was apparent that Crete is rich in agronomy. It provides fruit and veggies for the remainder of Greece and for Western Europe in general. We saw hot houses as well as orange and lemon trees, fully laden.
I’m beginning to recognize well-groomed olive trees and notice the carefully terraced orchards--field stone used for the walls and fencing. Solar gardens appear in fields or on tiled roof tops and speak to more “green” thinking and attitudes.
After enjoying the beach, we made our way to vineyard number 4, the Manousakis winery, where we tasted wines, and were surprised by a 1200-1500 year old olive tree. Its trunk is gnarled, but the shoots and new growth still provide olives to this day.
As always, as we see evidence of those who've gone before us, they are ever present in our minds.
We returned to Chania and after a bit of “happy hour” by the pool, took a walk by the wharf for dinner. Tried "goat" for the first time, and found it tender and good, though I felt bad eating the poor critter. Tomorrow off to Zaros for two nights.
The morning view from our hotel was lovely.
We left the hotel, but naturally though Jane and I were "prompt," we neglected to remember that we had to hike several blocks to the pick up point, so we hustled, and met the bus on time.
Our two-lane road through mainland Greece was lined with pink and white oleander, and the rocky hills dotted with wind turbines gave way to rocky valleys filled with olive trees. Again, we saw spirit houses and hoped our trek would end safely--no need for spirit houses for us!
We drove to two places enroute to the Athens' airport: the sanctuary of Athene Pronaia and the monastery of Hosios Loukas, a UNESCO site.
Athena Pronaia
This monestary preserves an almost intact group of wall mosaics, the highest degree of artistic expressions of the Byzantine culture. It also constitutes the earliest example of an architectural type (cross-domed octagon), which was an original creation "distinguished for the unified internal space and its harmoniously structured volume."
Though it was again beastly hot, our driver dropped us at the airport and we had another adventure--somehow we'd been booked on Aegean Air to Crete with a "no luggage" designation, so we each had to pay 35 Euros for each bag. Then two of the nine of us were given "standby" status, and the situation escalated once we got to the gate. With 20 minutes until takeoff, we wondered why no one else was at our gate, only to realize (once viewing the screen) that the gate had been changed--and off we flew to the new gate. We arrived to a packed crowd, and our two standbys got the last two seats on the plane. Disaster averted!
The 30 minute flight from Athens to Chania (HON-YA) in Crete went well, and we were met by a new driver and a new van. Off to the hotel and before we even got to our rooms, Jane and I and Anna stopped at the hotel bar for a double gin/tonic. Ten Euros each, but we didn't care--we were SO hot and ready for something alcoholic and wet. Delicious.
I took the quickest shower to date and met the crew for a walk to a great restaurant, Xani, where Anna again ordered various things for us to try--a highlight was the lamb, and we enjoyed a great feast (again!).
So leaving Hotel Phillipos was a sad farewell--gorgeous beaches and great internet...but onward! Our trek to Delphi took us through the heart of Greece and we observed many “spirit” houses along the way--these houses (looking like larger mailboxes) are erected in memory of someone who’s died in that spot. They’re not unlike memorial crosses one sees now and then along our roadways. These houses come in all styles, from simple boxes (with maybe a cross atop it), to ornate mini orthodox churches. After breakfast we loaded up, stopping in the port city of Nafpaktos for a bit of lunch. We knew it was hot, but gaped at the bus thermometer read 49.8 degrees. No wonder my lip gloss was mush. A “lite” lunch means beer all around, chicken, local sausage, two types of salad, peppers, cheese in phyllo, and fries. So wonderful to eat and sip by the sea and feel the breeze off the water.
After countless hairpin turns, we arrived at Delphi and toured the museum. The two others and I trekked in the heat to the ruins--marveling all the way at the history of the place. Glorious. We saw several meditating near Athena’s palace, perhaps hoping to hear the Oracle's voice and instruction?
After showering at the hotel, we had a wonderful meal, complete with delicacies Anna felt we should try.
Awoke today with energetic chattering of birds. Breakfast of frittata, pound cake, Spanakopita, good bread, jam, and juice/coffee. Then off to circle the island, stopping at a winery, two lovely beaches on the Adriatic, and a fun restaurant before coming back to the hotel for lamb done on a spit. The winery reminded us a bit of Four Daughters--small, newer, but tastefully constructed. After a tour, we sampled wines, bought two bottles of a white we liked (called Skin Contact (!)), and examined the old presses, etc.
We wound through little towns, past the Onassis island, and then on to the first beach… And what a beach! We twisted and turned along curvy, narrow roads leading through pines, then down to rocky terrain. We could have been in Oregon or on the Gunflint, but suddenly the “windex” blue water appeared, so blue due to the limestone that encircles it. The beach itself was pebble-filled, so we used water shoes to get to the edge, but once there, whoosh! the waves drew us out, then in, then out again. So lovely--like one of the beaches posted on Pinterest. This beach, Katsiki, was filled with families enjoying the holiday of Pentecost, and we lounged after swimming, enjoying a gentle, even rolling of the waves. I was the only one (and I mean the ONLY one) to have a one-piece bathing suit on. Though I’m sure no one gave a rip, I was so conscious of being swaddled in my brown Lands End one-piece, that I’ve vowed to get something new...and soon.
Then to Greco Levante for beer, appetizers. We loved the fried zucchini in a dill sauce as well as local sausages, potatoes, etc. A great oasis before our next beach…
Beach number two was a 45 minute drive north to Kathisma. This beach was “organized,” as Anna would say--much more commercial. One could do tandem paragliding, sit under one of several hundred umbrellas (for a fee). Heavy music pulsed throughout the beach and the waves….were huge and powerful and awe-inspiring. We elected to simply spread our towels on the beach and then waded out onto the more sand-like beach. These waves, though, pounded, and more than once we were knocked down by their powerful surges. Kids shrieked and ran; parents kept a watchful eye. This beach had a rhythm of its own.
A lazy drive back to Hotel Philippos; after a shower, our outdoor picnic of lamb, salad, potatoes, and plenty of wine ended our adventuresome day nicely. Tomorrow on to Delphi. Going to miss this hotel and the great internet!
Well, after a rather interesting hotel stay (sort of felt like I was in a smoky youth hostel--glad I didn't know about the creepy crawlies in someone's room) we left the Hotel Liberty for a 2 hour drive north to Lefkada Island on the Ionian Sea. Now THIS place is wonderful--Philippos Hotel/Apartments. Outstanding 3-bed suite with kitchenette and two balconies. Flowers galore and fresh scent wafting through the breezy air. Temp has moderated--perhaps 80 with a high of 90. Not bad by the sea.
We relaxed on the beach--ordering gin/tonics and enjoying sailboats in the distance.
Around 7 pm we bussed up to the local monastery for a huge festival for Greek Orthodox Pentecost. Food, vendors, and even a few dozen bishops (treated like royalty) combined to make for a festive, fun experience. We’re all delighted that the temp dropped--only up to 90 or do today!
There’s nothing better than freshly squeezed orange juice in the morning. Love it. Love it. Love it. Highlight of my breakfast and morning! We’ve packed up to move on, and somehow I must be getting better at stashing stuff, since my suitcase had more room this morning. Way to go, girl!It amazes me how well Jane and I travel together. Seriously, I love you all, but I’d probably drive some of you crazy, and visa-versa, as we’d discover the world. Being in such close quarters, there’s a sort of magical dance we do. No sunglasses? Here, use a pair of mine. Forgot deodorant? I’ve got extra. We have a routine we go through when we get to a new hotel room. We stage it--her suitcase and “area” here, and my suitcase and “area” there. Somehow, with humor and patience, we stay sane, laughing and chuckling along the way. Traveling with Anna, one sees, hears, feels her passion for all things Greek--the food, the wine, the language, the culture. Her daughter and husband (along with their two sweet daughters) live in Athens. It must be so fun to see your kids and grandkids embrace and become part of the world community. Having been born in California, Anna married a Greek and that culture has defined her since. It’s a treat to be part of her “Anna and Friends” tour. The drive to Messolonghi took us 2.5 hours and we again tackled the heat. Today’s high point was over 46 degrees C, or about 115 F, I’d say. This city is along the salt flats, and harvesting of salt and therapeutic mud is a big draw and industry. The city was at the epicenter of the Greeks ousting the Turks, primarily with the help of Lord Byron who wrote over 900 letters imploring generals and soldiers from over 15 countries to join the the battle against the Ottomans. Two sieges here lasting seven years finally ended with the Greeks winning their freedom, and much is attributed to Byron’s influence in drawing over 20,000 troops to assure this liberty, though thousands died. Only two cities in the world have been designated as “sacred” cities, due to the loss of life in defending their freedom, the Alamo, and Messolonghi. The heat of the day zapped us and we dripped as we stood under young olive trees, only 200 years old, and learned about olive groves and olive production and harvest. We then went to the processing center where we saw the machines used in the making of olive oil and tasted oils. A huge parallel exists between the making of wine and the production of good olive oil: altitude, temperature, light, blending, etc. Very fun. We bought oil and oil products. Delicious.
We then toured a cooperative salt flat (learned of the salt harvest) and there ate a prepared picnic lunch consisting of good, hearty bread; salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, onions, and feta; as well as Spanakopita; a cheese bread; olives; and wine. Because the day had gotten so warm, we elected to spend an hour or two back at the hotel before heading out to...the mud.
So the mud...it’s similar to that of the Dead Sea I’d experienced a year ago January. One wades out into the salty water, sinks into the muck (the therapeutic mud), scoops up a handful of it, rubs it all over oneself, waits about 20-30 minutes for the mud to dry, and rinses thoroughly. Truly, your skin feels wonderfully smooth afterwards, though you can’t help but laugh at how ridiculous you look adorned with the stuff.
Then? Well...onward to a restaurant where we enjoyed local Greek yogurt with local thyme honey and candied orange rind, as well as Greek coffee. Delicious.
Since it was around 8 pm I figured we’d be heading back to the hotel for a shower (still had on my suit), but...oh nooooo--on to dinner at one of Anna’s favorite places. So there we were--all sort of disheveled--eating wonderful Greek food, drinking beer, wine, eating salads, cheese, chicken, pork, potatoes, sardines after the mud bath. But heck, it was fun to be so carefree.
Finally arriving at our new hotel about 10, I quickly showered and then ventured out into the street to see day one of a three-day festival celebrating the Greek Orthodox Pentecost. Tonight the Romas (gypsies)--all men--marched through the streets to the sound of drums and flutes sounding like bagpipes. They affectionately hugged one another, their joy very apparent. I guess there is a pilgrimage to a local monastery tomorrow, followed by partying galore.
Then Monday also is a holiday, so the locals are enjoying a three-day weekend here. Tomorrow we move on again, taking a 2 hour trek to Lefkada, and since we’ve been so busy, we’re having a relaxing beach day--the Ionian Sea is gorgeous, according to Anna. So adventures continue, and I’m getting used to the unstructured nature of the trip. Our group has "jelled,” and we’ve slipped into an easy camaraderie. We laugh, poke fun at one another. There’s nothing like suffering through the heat to feel as if we’ve survived as a team!
Again, no photos load. Have posted some directly from my phone to Facebook, but they aren't transferring to my ipad or onto blog site. Ho hum.
Update: Now in Lefkada, things are looking up! Better connection, so some photos are actually loading. Woohoo!
This type of trip is different from the other great adventures we’ve taken--it’s sort of a vagabond trek through Greece. Though Anna knows where she’s leading us and feeding us and has everything arranged, we have no specifically detailed itinerary--just a vague list of dates and places we’ll stay. So each day is an adventure for us. A monastery? A winery? A historical site? A beach? She leads and we follow. Sometimes we’re on time; other times we might be somewhere around the targeted hour. The tempo is slow and easy, and I’m learning to go with the flow--I like having someone else take charge; I like discovering something new around every corner; I like having to pinch myself to to realize this is no fantasy--it’s real, baby. Real. I marvel at the Greek language--often sounding like Italian to my ear, though far from it, I’m sure. The signs aren’t often in any other language than Greek, and the alphabet...well let’s just say my sorority days didn’t prepare me well for conversation or understanding Greek at all.
So what’s a June morning in Greece like? Sunny, sunny, sunny. Dry, warm (turning hot) air. Still--barely a ripple on the water before us. People stroll the sidewalk along the beach, and cars, bikes move lazily past. Jane and I sit on the balcony of the dining area--she with her breakfast of bread, cheese, tomato, and olive; I with my Greek yogurt (sweetened with honey) and freshly squeezed orange juice. This is the life…
LATER: After breakfast, the day began with a trip across the Corinthian canal, which joined the Adriatic to the Aegean. Built from 1891-1893, the canal cut 131 nautical miles between the ports of the two seas. The work of the Hungarians in the late 1800s is astounding.
Then on to the the Sanctuary of Asklepios at Epidaurus--a grand ampi-theater. Standing in the middle on a designated spot, one's voice projected clearly to the entire space. This UNESCO site's info tells us, "The facilities that have been discovered in the Sanctuary... include the acts of worship, the procedure of healing with a dream-like state of induced sleep known asenkoimesis through the preparation of the patients, the facilitating of healing with exercise and the conduct of official games."
The heat rose to over 45 C and we melted in the dry heat, yet by walking slowly, drinking lots of water, we acclimated and enjoyed the sites.
Then on to an exquisite winery where we sampled whites, a rose, and reds. This winery, Skouras, touted a 1000 barrel cellar, one of five such cellars in Europe. It has won multiple awards, even first in the world-wide gold class for its 2015 Syrah. Our presenter, Domitrious, entertained and informed us of his vineyard's wine, and we all loved the passion he shared with ease. Very fun.
Then...well why not a major hike to a fortress atop a former capital of Greece? Anna and 3 others (including me) discovered the fortress built by the Venetians. The rest of the group stayed seaside and enjoyed gelato. The fortress, hugging a cliff or hilltop, gave us a glorious panoramic view. Though the heat nearly did us in (over 45 C!), we drank water, walked slowly, and imagined the laborious work of constructing, and then defending, the fortress.
After fetching the gelato crew, we zoomed to another fantastic meal. The highlight was lambchops, and even those who thought they didn't care for lamb were raving over the tender, flavorful meat. Tomato salad, bread with dips, amaranth greens, fried Feta cheese, then the lamb served with lemon and fries, and finally fruit. Sensational wine throughout the meal. I delicious experience--one chosen by Anna to draw us in to Greek food. And we were smitten.
Now for a shower to wash the salty glaze from our skin and off to bed. We leave tomorrow at 8 for...I guess Anna will let us know when we get on the bus!
Another good night of sleep (love it!). We awoke at 7, packed up a bit, had breakfast, and took the hop on/off bus--a good way to see central Athens in 90 minutes. We didn't get off--just rode on top, enjoying the sun and the sites while listening to the commentary of the area. So thankful for the 45 SPF sunscreen. Around 1, we boarded our new Mercedes van for a 45 minute ride up the coast to Loutraki, just north of Corinth. The quaint (charming!) hotel is on the Aegean Sea and we couldn't wait to jump in. Soooo cool in the hot, dry air.
Then after a shower, we took off for a winery--one that Anna gets some of her wine from. The temp hit 45 degrees centigrade,which is about 115. Yikes. We tried several varieties from several different casks and loved tasting, comparing, critiquing.
Then on to dinner--which naturally begins around 8:30, my former bedtime. I jotted down some of the selections Anna made for the group and here are most things we tried: beer or wine, then tomato/onion/feta salad, endive salad, tatziki and bread, fried zucchini and dill sauce, French fries with egg and yogurt (excellent, tho is sounds weird), lamb with yogurt sauce, eggplant in a tomato sauce, beef sausage, plain fries with oregano, lamb chops, cheese tart, orange cake or brownie with ice cream.
Absolutely fabulous and we all rolled onto the van for the ride home, promising we'd fast tomorrow. But then agreeing to meet for breakfast before 10. This must be what a culinary trip is all about...but I'm loving it!
After settling into our room, Jane and I took a quick nap--just an hour to stave off headache and disorientation from jet lag and lack of sleep. We met the group in the lobby and explored the area of our hotel--the Plaka area. It’s filled with restaurants and shops and now and then a monument, a piece of fabulous history. The colors and languages swirled about us as we wandered the lanes, which originally were burros' trails. No wonder these wound around and seemed to have had no specific navigational planning. We all stopped for refreshment, and that naturally involved a beer, tatziki, flatbread, fried cheese, and French fries. Loved every bit of it.
But tired and needing sleep, Jane and I had a quick gin/tonic on the rooftop and hit the hay.
Day 2: We slept well, and I had trouble believing I’d slept until 8:29--had to rush, since I told Anna I’d meet them at 9 for a Day 2 adventure of hiking up the the Arcopolis and then visit the new Acropolis museum. Jane elected to snooze a bit longer, since she’d seen both places previously, so off I went, sunscreen in hand.
The day was gloriously clear--a gorgeous blue sky--but warm. I’d elected to wear a skirt and sleeveless top, and felt as cool as I possibly could. The 20 euros to see the Acropolis was well worth it, and I regretted so that Lord Elgin had removed the marble from the site there and transported it to London. I’d seen the Elgin Marble at the British Museum in London, but think it’s time England return what’s now missing from the original pieces housed in the Acropolis Museum.
We watched the Acropolis Museum’s informative video and then strolled through the floors, marveling at the workmanship and grand scheme of the Parthenon, and The Temple of Athene Nike in particular. I hadn’t known that the buildings had been colorfully painted or that they had been home to various religions throughout the years.
A bit of a rest at the hotel, then off to a rooftop dinner. As we ate, the Acropolis lights gradually began to illuminate the structures, and we drank wine until all was lit.
Walking home at 10:30 from dinner was a new experience, and I hope I'll sleep tonight, full tummy and all. Tomorrow morning we're planning on the hop on/hop off bus tour before heading away from Athens. So fun to see the lovely sights and be in the midst of so many languages and cultures.
The packing (and double, triple checking of everything) took me until midnight, and I dragged my bag and carry-on to the front door all set to load into the car. After a quick shower I jumped into bed, but my thoughts kept me awake--and too soon it was 1:30 when the clock radio chimed in. Time to get up and get moving for my 2:30 pickup. Yep...just 1.5 hours of sleep. An early morning. A VERY early morning. Driver Les Anderson was prompt and we loaded my suitcase and sped off to grab Jane. As we all drove north, a lightning show kept us enthralled, yet it never rained on us. We got to the airport and through boarding-pass printing and TSA Precheck by 4:30. And then came the wait--flight to Philly wasn't until 6:50, and there we'd have a six hour layover. Oh my. Four others from the trip eventually found their way to the gate, and we re-introduced ourselves, eager to get on with our Greece adventure.
Tired, quite cold, we were happy to get on the commuter jet, but froze the entire way to Philly. There was no way to shut off the arctic blast blowing on us, and this flight had no blankets. When we landed, both of us were in need of coffee. Determined not to be cold again (and fearful I would be on the Philly-Athens leg), I bought a fleece blanket and lumbar pillow and stashed them in my carry-on.
We were the first bodies at the gate for the Athens flight, but eventually we needed to celebrate our adventure with wine and appetizers. No problem--a wine bar was just down the corridor.
Then on to Athens. Flight was full, but I was warm with my blanky and all. My movie screen didn't work, so I took that as a sign I should just rest. And rest is all I could really do--no sleep. We pulled into the Athens gate right on time, were met by a travel rep, and taken to the hotel.
Rooms weren’t available yet, so what does one do? Up to the rooftop cafe/bar for a bite and a bottle. Is this not a gorgeous view?
