the morning after

March 14, 2017 by Jane Johnson

This morning the same moon that illuminated Alex and Tak’s evening wedding festivities is setting in the West, revealing oaks outlined by snow now covering the southern Minnesota landscape. Can it be that only hours ago in Thailand’s interior, we said our good-byes to the pinch-me-I’m-dreaming magic of this wedding adventure?

Forty-two hours. Yes, 42 hours separated us from the heat and enchantment of Chaiyaphum to the chill of Minnesota, to the familiarity and comfort of our cozy beds. On one hand those travel hours seem like a forever, yet on the other, I marvel at the mere chance of being able to navigate half the globe in fewer than two days. I’m old-school. I stand in awe of our connectivity--both in transportation and technology.

It was just before noon Sunday morning (11 pm Sat. eve in Minnesota) that we settled our bill for the pension (mine was THB 900.00--about $25 for two nights). Ironically this little place had the best wifi of the trip--put the luxury places to shame. We hugged not only Tak and Alex, but our entire Thai experience. A poignant farewell. Then packed into vans, we made the 5 hour trip to Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi Airport.

Things became greener the farther south we went

This return trip to Bangkok was done in daylight, and we could see for the first time the change in terrain. Tak’s farm is located in a dry, rather desolate area, whereas we motored through a landscape that became hilly and more green. We saw what we thought could be sugar cane being harvested and transported in bundles in the back of trucks. And I again drew back at the sight of crispy crickets and silkworms being sold (this time in bulk) at the rest stop en route. Egads.

Crispy crickets (left) and silkworms (right)

On all our flights from Bangkok to Minneapolis ( with stops in Seoul and Detroit), we had excellent seating, thanks to Madam Seat-Selector Extraordinaire, Lee Wiese. In fact, during the long stint from Seoul to Detroit (13 hrs.) I had the luxury of being able to stretch my legs out completely. Fabulous, Lee. You're amazing.

We’d heard of the recent snow in Minnesota, and as we landed in Detroit, I saw the storm front had attacked there as well. As we landed in what I’d call a blinding blizzard. I already had it in my head that we’d need to stay at the Westin attached to the airport. But the monitor showed our next flight was still scheduled to depart “on time.”

Since we had a nearly five-hour layover, I snagged a great lounger, used my down coat as a pillow, covered up with my blanket, and rested. Then miraculously the snow slackened and we boarded the Minneapolis-bound plane. After de-icing (which in itself was quite an undertaking) we took off. All in all, we landed a mere 30 minutes past schedule--quite a marvel given all our connecting planes and the weather.

De-icing took more than 30 minutes, but I wasn't complaining

Solution sprayed onto the wings from a cab extended from a truck

All luggage arrived, as did our driver, and the gentle ride home was marred only by the vision of snow on the ground. But the Minnesotan in me quickly switched my mindset and I welcomed the cold and the familiarity of my stomping grounds.

The animals greeted me, as did my friend Carole who was tending to them as I arrived home. After a happy hour of sharing wine, cheese, and crackers, I knew I was transitioning back into reality.

What I love about travel is this: I return home a different person. Along the way I learn and glean much from the wider world. Now I relish the photos and the experiences shared with the Hellies (and their entourage) and I know my life is richer for having traveled the path Tak and Alex invited me to share. Love you both. Blessings and happiness always.

Thank you to whoever took this photo.  I love it. — Thank you to whoever took this photo. I love it.

The evening bash

March 11, 2017 by Jane Johnson

We napped (and some enjoyed beer) during the heat of the day. Then around 6 p.m. we left for more festivities at Tak’s farm. The day’s ceremonies had been in the Thai tradition; now the evening was to be American--dinner, refreshments, dancing.

The full moon added an elegant touch to the joyful atmosphere. Tak’s parents had again transformed the farm--now a party venue. Tables for eight were set up near a bar (complete with an accomplished bartender), as well as dancing and music areas.

Alex was dressed in a gleaming suit, and Tak? Another gorgeous dress.

The sun was just setting as we sat down at tables. Appetizers, fish, rice, soup--wonderful Thai food--were passed around. We drank, ate to our heart's content, and listened to gentle music from a local group. The crazy dance music would come later.

Toasts were made, grateful appreciation for a marvelous wedding and celebration were given. I’m sure few Thai guests understood the words Chris and Dan spoke, but nonetheless, the meaning was conveyed and well received.

Eventually traditional Thai dancers in their beautiful costumes entertained us and then the dancing began. I’m sure the Thai guests wondered just what antics we Americans were performing, but it was fun all the same.

A few of the Thai dancers in their traditional outfits

Keeping with the American tradition, Tak pulled her father out onto the dance floor, tossed her bouquet to a number of single gals, and then she and Alex cut the cake--with a sword(!). The cake was delicious.

The heat didn’t really affect any of the day’s activities, but it did tire me out--despite my great afternoon nap. I’m sure the “kids” partied hearty into the night. A few of us in the older crowd? Home to rest and enjoy memories of a once-in-a-lifetime celebration.

Morning ceremony

March 11, 2017 by Jane Johnson

Well, 5 a.m. came pretty quickly, but I dressed with excitement. Ironically after all the fuss and care to find the correct attire and worry about accessories, shoes, etc., the fact the pension did not supply hair dryers really put a kink into things--had to make do with my flat iron. In the end, I really didn’t care what I wore, how I looked. The day's focus was on Tak and Alex.

The vans rolled up in front of Tak’s farm, lit in the morning glow by vertical batons of light. The sun hadn’t risen yet, and we stepped into a farm area prepared for the festivities to come--tents, flowers, aromas of cooking food.

The groom had dressed in traditional Thai wedding attire (he’d actually had a “dresser” come to the pension to help him navigate the thing), and eventually the bride, the glistening image of Tak, emerged in what I learned would be the first of two outfits for the morning ceremony. I also learned that the morning was actually comprised of two separate and distinct ceremonies--the first was the blessing by the monks, followed later by a less formal family ceremony.

Meeting Tak’s parents, as well as her aunts and uncles, cousins, friends, was a joy-filled, poignant moment. We couldn’t speak the same language, but the hugs and the smiles validated that we shared the same wish for Alex and Tak: happiness and fulfillment in a life well lived. Their warmth and genuine welcome were humbling; the sharing of their home and happiness with us crazy Americans was a delight.

Each of the groom’s guests were shown a table festooned with varied food and ornamental items. We were instructed as to what to carry later in the morning as we would follow the drums into Tak’s home and offer our gifts of food and other things her family. And it would be at this point that Alex would have to be scrutinized by Tak’s friends to see if he was a “worthy” groom. He would have to pass seven levels of questioning or performance--like singing a song and dancing.

Ceremonial food/items the groom's family is to present

As the sun rose, the bride and groom posed for photos. My prayer was (and is) that each day as the sun rises, their marriage and their lives will be blessed.

Nine monks, barefoot and dressed in orange, arrived, and the ritual ceremony began. We all sat in chairs opposite the row of monks, Gifts of food, drink and supplies were brought to the monks and set before them. These were then removed so the ceremony and blessing, complete with chanting, could begin.

But before the chanting began, the monks had unrolled a small ball of string or twine and passed it down their row, so the thumbs of their prayerfully placed hands held the string. Thus the string “tied” or linked them all together.

A cantor chanted, and then the monks themselves, sitting cross-legged on a raised dais, then began their chant. Out of respect, I didn’t photograph this portion of the morning, but the melodic, rhythmic chant lasted nearly 30 minutes, with the cantor occasionally adding his own chant.

After the blessing, the string the monks had unfurled was cut, and a portion of it was used to tie together two crowns (white, bead-like) given to Tak and Alex to wear--thus linking the two of them with the blessing the monks had given. Then nine of us presented each of the monks with flowers, and we all were given blessings and sprinkled with water shaken from reeds dipped in water.

The ritual blessing concluded, the monks slipped off the dais and walked out to tables under tents in the yard for their morning breakfast--this included some of the food brought to them earlier. They ate alone, as is customary, and only following their departure, did the rest of the guests eat.

The monks eating alone after the blessing

So at 8 am we breakfasted on chicken with green chilis, pork, rice, chicken wings, and drank soft drinks, beer and water. Amazing. More from the village arrived, and eventually nearly 150 or so enjoyed a morning meal, most gussied up for the occasion.

As the feast was winding down, we heard percussion--faint at first. The drum ceremony. A joyful, colorful mix of young and old, male and female slowly processed down the road and into Tak’s gravel path. Townspeople joined in dancing to the rhythmic beat. Thus began the traditional ritual of the groom’s friends and family’s bringing gifts to the bride's family.

Villagers and dancers came to fetch the groom's family for the procession

We gathered up the items and food we’d been coached about and walked next door to Tak’s relatives' home. Then with the drums and village members leading the way, we sashayed down the road and onto the gravel path leading to Tak’s house. Alex was at the head of the pack, and then came Dan and Irene, with the rest following.

Dancing villagers, then the drums--then we followed behind

Uploaded by Jane Johnson on 2017-03-15.

We brought fruit, sweets and more.  I carried a cooked chicken (head intact) and a bottle of beer. — We brought fruit, sweets and more. I carried a cooked chicken (head intact) and a bottle of beer.

The local gal to my right grabbed the beer to carry.  We were a motley crew — The local gal to my right grabbed the beer to carry. We were a motley crew

The cooked chicken I carried.  Love the attached head — The cooked chicken I carried. Love the attached head

The festive rhythm moved us right along, and eventually Alex (with us, his entourage) was halted at Tak’s door and asked his crazy questions. Only after answering to the approval of the questioner, did Alex move on the the next level--he had to complete 7 levels. It took awhile, and he did need help from some friends, but eventually Alex “passed,” and was allowed to enter the ceremonial area.

During the procession Tak had been out of sight. The groom’s parents, the bride’s parents, and various other relatives entered the ceremonial area and sat on the dais once occupied by the monks. Tak's family seemed to be on the cusp of giving their approval and blessing for the marriage, indicated by cash and gifts placed on the floor in front of them.

Tak's parents on the right, her aunt and uncle (I think) in the middle, Irene and Dan (off camera)

At this point Alex was told to search for Tak. After a brief hunt, he found her, and they entered the ceremonial area and sat on the floor. Tak had changed into another exquisite dress, and again, her makeup and hair were done to perfection.

After finding Tak, Alex removes his shoes while Tak enters in another gorgeous dress

Parents and relatives gave their approval. Rings were exchanged, and then came the time of blessing from family and friends.

This blessing portion of the ceremony was a tender time for me, as I felt the absence of Pete so profoundly. I was Alex’s godmother here witnessing his marriage to Tak, but missing was my hubby Pete, Alex’s godfather, who'd passed away last August. I felt a chasm open before me and my heart ached.

During the blessing, Alex and Tak sat in ceremonial chairs with the linked crowns on their heads. They held their hands in front of them, palms together. Then wedding guests were given a bit of water to drizzle over their hands. I assume this was a time to pass on a blessing or prayer. The water poured through their hands into flowers beneath them.

Ready to receive blessings from the villagers and family.  The vessel on the left held water--this we drizzled over their hands as we offered our congratulations and prayers — Ready to receive blessings from the villagers and family. The vessel on the left held water--this we drizzled over their hands as we offered our congratulations and prayers

After the blessing, we were invited to share a bit of lunch, and after a visit to the baby pigs (Tak’s family is pig farmers), we took the vans back to the hotel for a bit of a rest. Evening festivities would begin again about 6 pm.

The mother of the bride and the mother of the groom visiting the piglets

In transit--Krabi-Bangkok-Chaiyaphum

March 11, 2017 by Jane Johnson

Today’s agenda: Pack up for the flight back to Bangkok, then a 5 hr. van ride to Tak’s family farm. The actual wedding ceremony is now about to take place.

So, a series of “lasts”--last glass of freshly squeezed orange juice, last good wifi (so you may not see postings anytime soon…) last walk along the beach, last confrontation with those crazy monkeys.

Last look at the morning sun as it shines on the dock and karst

The contents of my bag seems to have grown, for it took me a full 10 minutes (complete with straddling the sucker and squeezing it closed with my calves) for it to zip shut. Think the issue is that my carry-on is nearly empty, so I’ll have to readjust before the flight home.

Hot, hot. I guess I’m ready for my next Thailand experience--going in-country to Tak’s childhood surroundings and enjoying the rural life--and the wedding!

Later:

Our final boat ride to the pier, then vans to the regional airport. No bullets in the luggage this time around, so all went smoothly.

The brothers, Chris and Alex--just chillin'

Lee saw this at the airport and without missing a beat said, "Well, THAT answers the age-old question!"

So what does one do with 90 minutes until take-off?

The cramped one-hour flight back to Bangkok brought us in on time. When we’d all assembled at Door 11, Tak and three vans arrived to whisk us up to her stomping grounds of Chaiyaphum. The vans were decked out with strobe lights, random decorations and hanging ornamentation. But, comfy seats and competent drivers.

The van interior--the blue vertical item is the gear shift

Our first pit stop was a truck-stop sort of place and I rolled my eyes at the extra-crispy small crickets and silkworms to munch on--either in cheese, barbecue, or seaweed flavor. I opted for a fairly innocuous iced mocha. Bathrooms? One could choose the traditional seated version, or the standing one.

Check out the fine print in the black circle--crickets, silkworms, anyone?  See weed, cheese, or barbecue flavors. — Check out the fine print in the black circle--crickets, silkworms, anyone? See weed, cheese, or barbecue flavors.

One can practice doing squats on this version

As the sun set, we rose higher into the hills. We slept, laughed, chatted, and finally, five hours after leaving the airport, we pulled into Tak’s state of Chaiyaphum. Though it was 9 pm, we had a full dinner they’d ordered for us--a Korean barbecue (Thai style).

So how does one make a Korean barbecue? First, you place a bucket of lit coals into a recessed square in your table, Fitted over the fire is a grill grate of sorts, as well as an area for broth. Then they bring out thinly sliced meat and vegetables. You grill the meat over the fire, and the vegetables and noodles are cooked in the broth. In other words, you work for your meal. In addition we ate rice, fries, tempura (vegetable and shrimp), drank beer and enjoyed ourselves.

The fire is placed in a rectangle cut into the tables

Veggies and noodles sit atop a bowl of fresh pork to grill

Meat cooks on the domed grate over the fire.  Broth, simmering around dome, cooks the veggies and noodles you add. — Meat cooks on the domed grate over the fire. Broth, simmering around dome, cooks the veggies and noodles you add.

The vans brought us to our rooms in a nearby pension, and we got our keys, dialed up the air conditioning, and called it a night--for we had to be ready for the vans to transport us to the wedding at 5:45 am. Yes, that's early morning, folks!

Krabi, Day 4--Monkey mania

March 09, 2017 by Jane Johnson

Another fresh morning--at least early in the day. The cooling breeze off the water and the islands being more visible in the distance indicated the humidity was waning. Temporary or not, I loved it.

But what wasn’t waning was the monkey population. Upon our initial arrival, monkeys had scurried along the beach, but until this morning, we really hadn’t seen many. We’d been warned about monkeys being bold and curious--even to the point of entering our rooms. This morning they were everywhere--on the chairs by the pool, in the trees, climbing on balconies and hanging onto walls.

They sort of scrambled all through the resort this morning

I love how the honey drips from the honeycomb onto the chute, and into the bowl.  Delicious on my yogurt — I love how the honey drips from the honeycomb onto the chute, and into the bowl. Delicious on my yogurt

At breakfast Irene had another adventure to share: A monkey had visited their room--Dan had left for a boat trip and apparently the door hadn’t latched completely as he left. Exiting the bathroom, Irene saw one of the critters sitting on her bed. An expert at wildlife management (she’s a trained bat catcher--Birch Lake, snake catcher--Quail Creek, "Dan" tamer--home and abroad), Irene simply shooed the guy outside and latched the door.

I figured it was high time I took the Monkey Trail into town. Lee and Steve joined me. Some had said the trail was tricky, others scoffed at its difficulty. I can tell Shannon, Ellen, and Dacy (our instructors at the Y) that Lee and I performed admirably. Steep steps up, a sandy trail (above and along the water), and steep, sloping steps down into town. 12 minutes max. A lovely vantage point for photos. Sort of like hiking the Gunflint in the summer.

Could be somewhere on the Gunflint, right?

Once into town, I heard, “Hello, Madam. Message?” from nearly every vendor on the street. It looked like an hour massage cost less than $10 and a manicure or pedicure (with polish) was 200 Baht--about $7. Not bad. But I had a massage booked at the resort.

Lee and Steve stayed in town, while I meandered back along the trail, changed into my suit, jumped into the pool and...ahhh….cooled off. A great morning.

My afternoon massage was just what I needed--relaxing, yet soothing for my tense neck and shoulders. I was offered a cool blue tea, into which I was to spritz some lemon. The drink then changed from blue to a faint violet hue and tasted refreshing. My masseuse, Nim, offered me the spa’s flipflops and then accompanied me to her massage area.

Once in her room, I changed into a disposable panty, probably made of paper and cotton--never used one of these before. Ok, so my first thong ever. After my donning a robe, Nim first detoxed my feet with a water, tea, and salt wash. Then the massage.

Leave it to Thailand to place an orchid in a bowl, so that when facedown on the massage table, I saw the orchid beautifully smiling up at me. Nim’s nimble, yet firm, fingers found my knotted muscles, and for an hour I relaxed. I grinned at her antics to make sure all my muscles were worked over--even to the point of her kneeling up on the table and applying pressure. Whatever the method, it worked and I felt marvelous.

After cup of warm, spicy ginger tea and a sweet, I was off, relaxed and ready for more of what Thailand has to offer.

Sadly I took my last dip in the pool. After packing a bit and dressing for dinner, I discovered the sunset...the best one yet, given the haze was less. Had an Albert Lea dinner (Hellies--including Chris and nephews, Weises, and me) and headed back to finish packing. All has to be outside the door at 9 am. We leave around 10.

The slothful life--Day 3 Krabi

March 08, 2017 by Jane Johnson

The air was less humid and a breeze felt nearly cool this morning as I made my way to breakfast. In fact, I had my coffee outside today with the leaves from the trees occasionally skidding over the table. So nice to be less humid.

First order of the day after breakfast was writing the blog and posting, since the wifi had made it difficult to load anything yesterday. It’s not easy to blog with weak wifi. Pictures and all take awhile to download. So...two hours later I was ready for the water.

I’d planned a lazy day and knew I wanted to have a chaise near the pool. The group had earlier strategically placed beach towels on chairs near the pool (thus claiming them for the day) and we leisurely read, jumped into the pool, ordered pina coladas, beers, jumped in the pool...you get the idea. We blissfully behaved as sloths; I closed my eyes and thought to myself how thankful I was to be able to explore and have adventures like this.

I’ve intentionally kept myself from hearing any news from the world around me. I’m in the world, but not of it--just for now.

Long boats constantly ran back and forth along the coast and I noticed several coming to the resort’s dock and unloading large amounts of supplies--like paper products, etc. It dawned on me that this place needs to have all supplies brought in by boat--all food, housekeeping products--everything. Amazing.

Some walked into town via the Monkey Trail (I may have to do that tomorrow--get my “steps” in for the day). During the most intense heat of the day many took to their rooms for naps. We could see the resort setting up for a surf/turf buffet for the evening.

The entire wedding group sat together on the veranda outside the main dining area and enjoyed the buffet. The staff had set things up nicely for us, and we tried all the delicacies of the area. It was stifling, and we drank more water than alcohol, I think--a first for this group.

Later the ladies and gents separated, and the gals showered Tak with a few fun gifts. A mini-bachelorette party complete with more wine, cheeses, and fruit!

Private boat tour--beaches, sand, and sun

March 07, 2017 by Jane Johnson

The plan for the day was exploring the area around the resort and the beaches, sand, lagoons of the karsts on the Andaman coast. A private boat was hired, and a plan was made: visit Monkey Island, Maya Bay, Bamboo Island and have lunch at Phi Phi don. The many karsts we saw jutting out of the water like fingers or fists are made of limestone.

As usual, the day was hot and sunny. We all met on the dock at 7:45 (after another great breakfast) and departed at 8. The boat provided a cooler, water and soft drinks. We supplied the alcohol--a great treasure trove of beer brands cooled among the ice cubes.

The cooler in the middle, we were all set

These karsts appear everywhere in the Andaman Sea--at least near Krabi

Long boats, even out in the middle of the sea

We zoomed across the water to the first beach, Monkey Island. Enclosed within the protection of the karst, the water was beautiful and warm. We snorkeled, swam, enjoyed. On the the next beach.

Second stop, Maya Bay--eventually got pretty busy

This beach in Maya Bay is in a national park and was very popular--so much so that the swimming was confined to one a small area, whereas the boats ferrying people to and from the island took up residence on the rest of the beach or simply anchored in the bay. Too busy.

Janet checking out the pandanaceae (screw pine) .  This island is part of a national park — Janet checking out the pandanaceae (screw pine) . This island is part of a national park

My favorite place to play was the lagoon--an area around 3-4 meters deep. We snorkeled and saw zebra fish, iridescent blue/green fish, coral...those of you who snorkel know what I’m talking about. Lovely.

Viking Cave where swallows (using their saliva)  build nests.  These nests are harvested for "bird's nest soup" in high-end restaurants (all sanctioned by the government). — Viking Cave where swallows (using their saliva) build nests. These nests are harvested for "bird's nest soup" in high-end restaurants (all sanctioned by the government).

Lunch in Phi Phi Don was delicious--pineapple fried rice with shrimp in curry sauce. I have a new favorite dish!

Tour boats lined up at Phi Phi Don--we had lunch here

My luscious lunch.  Curried pineapple fried rice, shrimp, with cashews. — My luscious lunch. Curried pineapple fried rice, shrimp, with cashews.

Our last stop of the day wasn’t on the schedule, but it was less crowded than Bamboo Island, so we opted for it, Bath-water warm, the water was silky, and we could feel the tide coming in, with the strong push/pull of the water.

Final beach.  Celebrating the wedding, our visit, our friendships. — Final beach. Celebrating the wedding, our visit, our friendships.

It was here that Lee taught us all about the “diaper” method of enjoying the water, cocktail in hand: You take a lifejacket, snap it together, turn it upside down, climb into it, putting your legs through the arm holes and pulling the rest of the jacket up around you. Then you sit in the water and your “diaper” keeps you afloat, thus freeing your hands for important work--like holding onto your beer or a cocktail glass. Very fun.

Floating with our life-jacket "diapers."  New form of swimnastics class? — Floating with our life-jacket "diapers." New form of swimnastics class?

We zoomed home, arriving about 4:15. All were tired. I showered, tried (and failed) to download photos (limited bandwidth?). I succeeded in avoiding any sunburn, save for my chest. Hoping that burn vanishes soon. Off to the resort’s Japanese restaurant for a delicious meal, before falling into bed.

Dinner at the Japanese place here at the hotel

Krabi, first full day

March 06, 2017 by Jane Johnson

Good night’s sleep--check. Purified water--check. Wifi--check. Gentle surf, sun, friends, food….check. Going to be a great day.

Gentle piano music greeted me as I walked into the breakfast area this morning. Too warm already to eat outside, the hostess seated me in a cooled area with fans and brought coffee. As I walked to the buffet area, I glimpsed the pianist--an older gentleman on the keyboard. Never have had breakfast music like this before!

Breakfast: FRESH juices (my weakness) as well as a lovely selection of eggs, breads, fruits, Asian noodles, Thai dishes, cereals--anything my heart desired. A great way to start the day for me, a previously confirmed non-breakfast eater. With my belly now filled, I can last until dinner time (well...perhaps I’ll add a snack with my cocktails throughout the day).

Next order of business: towels for a chaise on the beach or around the pool. I sign one out from the towel dude and proceed to the beach. Lee and Steve and I find three unclaimed chairs, but no umbrella. Since an umbrella is a MUST here, we don’t give up. We spot one not far away, but it weighs a ton. Noting it has wheels, we tip the umbrella and stand. Lee pulls, I push, and eventually we maneuver the thing into place. Tada!

The lulling surf nearly puts me to sleep again on my chaise--but I venture out into the water--warm, silky, just like the sand. The further I venture out, the cooler the temperature. Kayakers and paddleboarders float by in the distance. The cicadas sing, the surf swishes and I bob effortlessly.

Dinner tonight is in the town of Krabi--a 10 minute boat ride. Once there, the gang jumps into tuk tuks from the pier for the ride into town. We shop, eat, enjoy. A great relaxing day.

Tuk tuk transport into town.  50 Baht/person (about $1.50) — Tuk tuk transport into town. 50 Baht/person (about $1.50)

Thailand--Bangkok to Krabi (and more....)

March 05, 2017 by Jane Johnson

Why is it I fall into bed near midnight, only to awaken around 5? Perhaps it’s so I can savor the past few days and anticipate those to come. This morning we’re gearing up for a short flight to Krabi, and from the photos, it looks to be glorious. But we have enjoyed the big city, the hustle-bustle. Several things impressed me…

The first is the cleanliness of the city. I don’t think I’ve ever been in a metropolis so tidied up overnight that, come morning, it’s ready to begin living again. Any garbage left in bags along the curb has been picked up. Street vendors leave no telltale signs they’ve done business there during the day. City employees, dressed in long sleeves and pants, busily and constantly sweep leaves, debris, sand. Feels as if there’s real pride here.

The second thing I noticed (and it seems rather minor, but it stuck out) was the condition of the vehicles in the city. I didn’t see one dirty car or taxi. All were polished and gleaming. No dings, rust, faded areas. Pristine. I found that curious. Does it speak to the pride one has in one’s vehicle, or just to the fact it seems never to rain? And given the crazy traffic, we never saw an accident--heard perhaps only two sirens the entire four days we were here. Speaking of vehicles, we saw many Hondas, Toyotas, BMWs, Mercedes, Nissans, as well as a few Kias and Chevys. The cars aren’t as pint-sized as in other parts of the world--sort of like those I might see in my neighborhood. But motorcycles? Too many to count and too many in need of noise-reduction equipment. Ugh.

I found the traditional greeting of all staff particularly lovely--the prayerful hands and the bow of the head. Basically, as I returned the greeting, I felt positive energy, mutual kindness and goodwill--as if all that is good in me acknowledges and appreciates all that is good in you; the yes in me endorses and supports the yes in you. We are different, yet respectful of that difference. If only humankind had more of that.

The kids in the Hellie-wedding entourage (and I mean those under 40), are marvelous individuals. They’re smart and accomplished and forward-looking. They may go from pub to club and back again (which exhausts us older dudes), but the energy they exude and the positive vibes they emanate, give me a fresh look at things..they give me promise. That, in itself, brings peace of mind. A blessing to be sure.

Back to the events of the day: We left the hotel via two vans completely jammed with our luggage. Tension mounted as it came to light that not everyone was present and accounted for. Party animals were lagging behind! Perhaps because it was Sunday, the roads weren’t terribly busy and we got to the regional airport quickly--just a 30 minute drive. Miraculously by the time we checked in, all were present (though some appeared more pale than others). This smaller regional airport was spacious, clean, and staff answered our questions and assisted graciously. Thus we could proceed to check bags, go through security, and find our way to Gate 55--our first step to the beaches of Krabi.

But wait...a bit of commotion. Hellie? Mrs. Hellie? There appeared to be an issue with Irene’s checked bag. A thorough examination ensued and...well, I’ll be darned! Bullets from her .38 had somehow found their way into her toiletry bag. Seriously, Irene? With nooooooo idea how they got there (and wondering why TSA hadn’t flagged her bag for the bullets), Irene was eventually released from questioning after authorities confiscated the suspect contraband; our felon was freed and could continue onto Krabi. (We think an orange jumpsuit will make a fine gag gift sometime soon). Leave it to the Hellies for excitement--very odd excitement, but excitement nonetheless.

Thankfully the 90 minute flight to Krabi took only 60 minutes--our knees hit the seats in front of us. Air Asia certainly crammed us in there, but I can stand most things for 60 minutes.

When we landed, a Centara Grand Hotel rep was waiting with three vans, and our 30 minute ride to the coast was comfy. We unloaded our luggage and waited for a boat to carry us to the hotel--which is accessible by land, but only if you take the “monkey trail,” and it really is just a trail. For us, two boats for our luggage and one for us was perfect.

The fresh, salty air and spray--10 minute ride from shore to resort

This sprawling resort is tucked into the hill

Floating dock and monkeys awaited us.  The resort is surrounded by a national park. — Floating dock and monkeys awaited us. The resort is surrounded by a national park.

The terrain is the beautiful rock-faced outcroppings I’d seen in photos. The floating dock wasn't much of a problem, but the monkeys? Well, some seemed to be pretty uncivilized and I’m not sure I want to have much to do with them.

Our rooms are lovely--the complex is gigantic, and I feel fortunate to have a suite close the main buildings. One thing that struck me was the heat. Heavy, humid, horrific. Think tomorrow I’ll spend most of the day by the pool assessing my options: rock climbing/massage/kayaking.... But for now, it’s off to bed--just having had a mellow and magnificent bite to eat and bottle of wine at the bar. Oh, did I mention it was on the beach? With the surf rolling in? With the hazy moon above? With the next four days unfolding before me here in this paradise? Yeah, staff just came in and "turned down the bed." They left an orchid on the duvet. sigh

Two doors near the tub close to form a separate "bathroom" complete with a raining shower

An evening Coastal Mojito with the surf welcoming us

Day Four--canals and more

March 04, 2017 by Jane Johnson

Rumor has it I TOTALLY missed out on a great jazz club last night after the group dinner. At midnight the jazz switched to a DJ, and...well the photos Lee sent me tell the story. Wild, crazy fun. But I was so exhausted (I call it being “tired sick”) that I had to turn in early. Glad nearly everyone else went clubbing and had such fun.

With a group this large, we’d gotten smart and asked for a breakfast area separate from other diners--guess we could call this the “Hellie” section--so we could all belly-up to the table together. Fun to try new food at breakfast (Lee and I tried chopsticks). Naturally I ate slower, since it took coordination to maneuver anything to my mouth. I continue to marvel at the flavors and variety. Love using my five senses.

Our private breakfast room.  We feel pretty special — Our private breakfast room. We feel pretty special

Again the activities of the day found thegroup splitting up--those who’d ordered tailor-made clothes stayed at the hotel for a second fitting (we figured after last night they’d need a larger size), and six of us women followed Tak around like ducklings to the river for a canal ride. We retraced the steps we sweat sisters had taken yesterday, and, via the train, found ourselves at the Central Pier. I hadn't noticed until this morning how everyone queues up while awaiting the train. Lines form behind markings on the floor, and as passengers emerge, others can file aboard. Efficient--I so love this! Tak negotiated a long-boat ride for the seven of us--2 hours for the price of 1, and the ensuing hours mesmerized us.

Here they queue up for the metro train.  My kind of orderliness. — Here they queue up for the metro train. My kind of orderliness.

We took back canals (albeit with one lock into the canal and one out) and glimpsed a bit of Thailand not usually seen if one focuses strictly on downtown city life. Cruising on this colorful long boat, we saw fabulous and fussily-kept homes directly next to forlorn and seemingly forgotten ones. We glimpsed morning glories being grown for that great Thai “morning glory” dish, as well as small boats selling their wares. Several low boats cooked onboard and sold their dishes to occupants of other boats. I found all this fascinating. So different from life at the lake in Minnesota.

We bought bananas (and a beer for our driver) from this woman who paddled up along side of us.

These morning glory greens become Thai "morning glory" veggies.  Delicious — These morning glory greens become Thai "morning glory" veggies. Delicious

Our long-boat tour at an end, we were dropped off on a pier near Wat Arun--The Temple of Dawn. We’d walked right past it by yesterday in our frenzy to find the express boat, but now we could enjoy it. Again with shoes off, we entered the temple, and I was humbled by the prayerful people who came offering gifts to the monks. In return, they received his blessing. So very reverent.

Exquisitely inlaid tiles--found in most temples

We ferried across the river to the old city and docked at the very pier we sweat sisters had found yesterday. There’s a certain pride in feeling, “hey, I know my way around here,” especially after being so totally confused yesterday. Our destination, Wat Pho, lay across the street from the pier. Again, we’d totally missed this yesterday, and Tak, our patient and generous guide, led the way.

The focus of the Wat Pho complex is a gigantic, reclining gold Buddha, housed in an ornate temple. Followers prayed and gave offerings. The rest of the area glistened with shiny tiles, and I loved seeing the gallery of Buddhas that lined the structures.

Mama Hellie and me--we want to find replicas of these dogs

We again took the express boat back to the train, the train to the hotel. The day had been so warm--not one of us seven women needed a bathroom--can you imagine? It was so hot/humid that the water we continually drank simply sweated out of us and evaporated. We again were puddles when we arrived back at the hotel. And once again a “beverage” at the bar was exactly what we needed to refresh.

Dinner was an adventure. The “kids” had chosen a craft beer joint as a preprandial to a meal. Only trouble was...after a train ride, we needed a taxi to get us to the place. Since we were 12 people, we needed several taxis, and Tak, Dan, Irene and I were all together in one with neither phones nor cellular data. This wouldn’t have been a problem, but the locale was so isolated that the taxi driver couldn’t find it. Tak had given her phone to Alex who was the only one with the exact name of the place and the address. So...what to do?

Finally got to use one of these fun pink taxis, only to find ourselves eventually completely lost

After paying the driver, we were dropped on a corner, and we found a kind soul who loaned Tak a phone to call Alex. He gave Tak the exact name and address of the bar. Imagine Saturday evening around dinner time. Few taxis are unoccupied, let alone willing to stop for us four. We used our heads and marched up to the Marriott, pretended to be guests, and asked that a taxi be ordered. Worked like a charm.

With detailed info, the second taxi dude plugged the address into the GPS and...we finally arrived. We had 30+ beers to chose from and by that time, all sounded superb.

Finally the second taxi driver got us to this obscure place.  And yes...immediately refreshed ourselves — Finally the second taxi driver got us to this obscure place. And yes...immediately refreshed ourselves

Day Three--A blessing just to be!

March 03, 2017 by Jane Johnson

It's lovely to awaken and smile at the mere pleasure of your surroundings. Huge king bed, pressed, monogrammed sheets, the sun peeking in, and the promise of an adventuresome day. It's taken me awhile, but my room is finally working for me. I always have to "nest" a bit and have decided to ignore the scale (actually, it appears to be broken as I weigh a mere 75 lbs--no, not kilos...) and I've found the perfect lighting for the makeup mirror--a necessary element in wedding-guest preparation.

First order of the day is breakfast, naturally. I'm not usually a huge breakfast eater, but here...it's a shame not to enjoy the food, as well as the ambiance. This morning soft jazz played as I sipped coffee and nibbled on watermelon, pineapple, cantaloupe and drank my own combo of guava and pineapple juice. I rounded out the first course with homemade mango yogurt. Delicious.

Members of the Hellie group began showing up and the second/third/fourth breakfast courses ensued. Great marmalade on croissants, an omelette, yummy chinese buns (tasted a bit like angel food cake), a bloody mary bar, myriad Thai dishes and more exotic fruits: dragon fruit and langan. The dragon fruit reminded me of kiwi and the langan--one peels it to reveal the fruit which is sort of the consistency of a grape. You don't eat the seed, however. Actually, it's a lot of work to unearth that fruit to enjoy the delicate flavor. So interesting.

Finally--the parents of the groom appear.  Hellies with the Wieses — Finally--the parents of the groom appear. Hellies with the Wieses

Later: The ever-growing group split up with some going to find tailor-made suits, jackets, shirts, or dresses. I and three others (Lee, Laura, and Bev) decided to Über over to the Grand Palace, despite the predicted 96+ heat. Laura and Bev had covered shoulders & knees, and Lee and I made sure to bring scarves to cover our bare shoulders. Without a cloud in the sky, the sun shone and heated us quickly; the cooling wind of yesterday absent.

Our driver dropped us at a point near the palace and indicated we should walk "200 meters" to the entrance. Well, naturally, the 200 turned into 400, then 600 and 30 minutes later we finally made it to the palace complex. Because the traffic is so horrific, we thought it might be so very adventuresome of us to take an express river ferry back to the Central Pier and then find the elevated train, which would take us to the park we'd visited yesterday. A 15-minute walk would then bring us back to the hotel.

The Grand Palace was nearly sensory overload. Gold, mosaic, statues galore. Our 500 Baht ticket brought us to the entrance queue and with my wrapped shoulders, I was allowed through into the palace complex itself. Bev was right behind me..but Laura and Lee? Lee had been halted, told her leggings weren't appropriate, even despite her shawl covering them. The solution? Rent some pants. So with Bev and me inside the gate, Laura and Lee turned around to find the area that "rented" pants.

So...what do Bev and Jane do as Laura and Lee are pant searching? For over 20 minutes we linger comfortably in front of a fan near the entrance. We enjoy watching the people, and with the number entering the palace waning, one of the officials notices my scarf-wrapped shoulders, stomps over, flips the scarf off to reveal my shoulders and after stamping my hand to indicate "alread paid," orders me to find another top. Naturally I protest that I'd already been cleared to enter, but to no avail. There's a tourist shop 10 feet from the entrance with an array of t-shirts. 200 Baht later I have a cotton t-shirt snug over my lovely (though sleeveless) top, and I'm good to go.

Laura and Lee show up with Lee's scarf still wrapped around her waist as if she were wearing a long skirt. The staff at the clothing rental place disagreed with the staff at the Grand Palace entrance: the issue was really her shoulders, not her leggings. So with her shawl draped now as her "skirt," and a rented work shirt (complete with stains), she was approved and told she could enter. As Lee admits, she was just too sexy for her shirt. Both she and I looked like a couple of ragamuffings touring the palace.

Those "too sexy for their shirts" wear rented stained workshirts or swiftly purchased t-shirts

One online site gives the background of the palace:

" The Grand Palace is a complex of buildings at the heart of Bangkok, Thailand. The palace has been the official residence of the King of Siam (and later Thailand) since 1782. The king, his court and his royal government were based on the grounds of the palace until 1925. King Bhumibol Adulyadei (Rama IX), resided at Chitralada Royal Villa in the Dusuit Palace, but the Grand Palace is still used for official events. Several royal ceremonies and state functions are held within the walls of the palace every year. The palace is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Thailand."

One thing we enjoyed was a display (air-conditioned, mind you) of information regarding the late king--his ascension to the throne, as well as his family, etc. It is clear he is (was) so beloved because he was a monarch who understood his people. He worked with and for them, as well as the country, to better all things. The photo of sweat dripping off his nose while working tirelessly to help the Thai people, has become a revered photograph.

Famous photo showing the sweat of their king at work for them

Exiting the palace, we threw caution to the wind and decided to attempt the water-taxi/train method of going back to the hotel. What transpired in the next 2 hours was nothing short of a crazy, heat-infused frenzy through back streets and alleys to find the proper pier to the Express Boat. We tromped over cobblestones and curbs, through back kitchens, markets, and shops. Each person we asked gave us conflicting advice about where to find the "express boat." Back and forth, up and down, in and out...we carried on like the feral cats who stalk the streets.

A unique bike rack--these are parked, hanging on a fence covered in vines

But it's tourists helping tourists that got us on the right track. Apparently the pier we needed was being renovated and the Express Boat wasn't allowed to dock there. A knowledgeable American finally took pity on us and explained we needed to ferry across the river, then find the temporary pier for the "express boat," which would eventually take put to the Central Pier and to the adjoining train back to the park region Lee and I were familiar with that led to the hotel. Crowded ferry to the opposite shore (4 Baht), then a trek along the river to the Express Boat pier (no...no THAT boat! That's a tourist boat...). Obviously we were sweating by the time we found the proper boat and 40 Baht later, the fact it was jam-packed mattered little to me. I knew I could swim ashore if we capsized--something that didn't seem so off the mark at that point.

Miraculously we arrived at the Central Pier after 4-5 stops. Clambering off, we followed the crowd to the train, manipulated our brains to find the price we needed for a ticket, and climbed the steps to the proper platform (direction National Stadium). Woohoo! We were nearly home. When the train rolled in, we all stepped on, so thankful for the air-conditioning. I sort of smiled as I saw the halted traffic four lanes wide on the freeway as we whizzed by high above. Heck, we'd just maneuvered back to familiar territory all by ourselves. An adventure it was! And the beer that we guzzled in the hotel bar, even before going to our rooms, refreshed us. We decided the four of us were now really, truly "sweat-sisters."

The 5:30 gathering on the rooftop lounge found a wonderfully eclectic group meeting and greeting one another. Naturally most were from the US, but others had arrived from Korea, Germany, and Budapest. Leave it to the Hellie clan to assemble friends and family from across the globe for such a wonderful event.

Old friends--no, rather "long-time" friends

Several cool drinks later, we all trekked the 10-minute walk to dinner. Alex and Tak, Dan and Irene had arranged a delicious Thai feast for us. From appetizers to a final espresso, we enjoyed Thai delicacies bursting with flavors--some spicy, which we cooled with beer or wine. The long table under the stars was a perfect setting to celebrate Alex and Tak’s marriage, as well as the blessing of friends and family.

Bangkok--Day two: our first real morning.

March 02, 2017 by Jane Johnson

Ah...sleep. Yes, enjoyed a mere three hours (4-7 am) but seriously, this is how I acclimate. A brief “nap,” then it works for me to get going. I can take a snooze during the day, but without delving into the here-and-now of the day’s rhythm of the country I’m in, I struggle. So...up and going.

A fantastic breakfast on the 19th floor offered a plethora of fruit, eggs made-to-order, breads, Thai dishes, and surprisingly good coffee. What amazed me besides the food selection, was the clothing choice of some of the women who dined there. A few were as casually dressed as I, but goodness...some of the Asian women at 9 am were dressed as if they were attending a gala event. Lovely, gracefully draped clothing, stunning accessories, well-coiffed--puts the rest of us to shame.

But speaking of clothes...I realize I've packed an embarrassment of shoes, or at least sandals. Ten pairs. Ten. Three pairs of flipflops, water shoes, running shoes, three pairs of black sandals, comfy walking sandals, and dressier heels for the big events. Guess I just kept stashing them in the suitcase. Oh well...I'll try to wear them all. It's a girl thing, right?

The Wieses and I were the first of the 30 or so in the Hellie wedding entourage to arrive at Hotel Muse, so we decided to initiate ourselves into Bangkok life with a morning walk. The others would arrive throughout the day. We strolled the 10 busy blocks south to Lumphih Park, passing an interesting array of food-related stands. The park seemed similar to Central Park in New York. Closed to vehicles, the park allowed many people to jog, race bikes, perform Tai Chi, and simply relax on benches overlooking the various small ponds.

It didn’t take me long to morph into an 85-95 degree-weather sun worshipper. Sandals, sleeveless top, skort (and suntan lotion) and I was ready to go. It soon became apparent, however, that, despite a nice breeze, the humidity was getting the best of me. For the first time in months, I again felt the inevitable companion to summer: sweat. In short order I was dripping, so we slowed down, purchased water, and got into summer mode. Busy staff kept the park clean, most using what we’d term “old-world” methods. Delightful.

Back at the hotel, I decided to visit the pool on the 19th floor and blog a bit--couldn’t help but marvel at the architecture of some of the surrounding buildings here in downtown Bangkok. Some buildings swirl, others glisten like satin stainless. So fun.

The bride and groom arrived in the afternoon, and I enjoyed giving Alex, as well as his bride Tak, a hug. Lovely couple. Soon the guys were off to a sport club for an evening of Muay Thai fighting. Their mode of transportation? Motorcycles. Tak took us girls (those who were already at the hotel) out for Thai food, and I enjoyed the dishes she ordered. Not too spicy, but I could see how it could quickly become so.

Alex on his way to the Muay Thai fights!

Trek to Thailand--Day One (+ one?)

March 02, 2017 by Jane Johnson

OK, so I completely missed March 1--time traveled right through it. We left Albert Lea at 5 am on Feb. 28 and landed in Bangkok at 1:30 a.m.on March 2. So March 1? Well, we probably passed it by on the 13 hour flight Seattle-Shanghai.

With Delta “comfort” seats, the long journey across the Pacific was more bearable, due to great legroom. But the derrière--well, let’s just say I had to toss and turn to be comfy. Watched The Accountant and Florence Foster Jenkins. Enjoyed both, but I did dose a bit.

Then came the transfer in Shanghai. Oh my. Never have I had to go through customs/immigration in a country where I simply change planes. But...China’s different. They seem to be more "control freakish" than I am--we stood in line with detailed “immigration” papers, even though our transfer simply required us to find another gate. Those 45 minutes were filled with sour-looking officials barking directions, but we finally passed muster and went on to claim our luggage, bring it to another counter to be re-checked and tagged, then gave up our “immigration” papers to “leave” the country, and finally, finally got to our destination, Gate 212. All this jockeying around took nearly 2 hours, and we got to the gate 15 minutes before being bussed to our plane waiting in the middle of the tarmac. Needlesstosay, we’d had enough of China.

The flight to Bangkok was on China Eastern airlines--an affiliate of Delta. The 4 hour flight, which took off an hour late at 10 pm, seemed to last forever. I noticed from my window seat that most major roads were lit throughout--not just at interchanges like our freeways. Interesting to observe all the criss-crossing of lights below during the flight.

Landing in Bangkok, I felt instantly welcomed--not by specific people, but by the soft music we heard, the orchids in pots we saw lining the concourses, and the “laid back,” relaxed feeling that somehow the 2:30-in-the-morning airport emanated. Such a nice change from Shanghai.

In Bangkok, going through immigration and customs was not cumbersome, and exiting the airport, we found a taxi van with little issue. They have a logical, quick way of providing taxi service: you push a button on an outside kiosk at a central location and voila! you get a number of the parking bay across from you where the taxis are lined up. You walk over to the numbered bay found on your ticket, hand over your bags, explain your destination, and you’re off--quick, easy, sensible. My kind of operation.

The trip from the airport to the hotel was pretty speedy--given the hour (little traffic) and our 800 Baht trip translated to about $23. Not bad.

So finally...we entered our Hotel Muse in Bangkok, Thailand. After confirming our information and getting our keys, we were disappointed to find the rooftop bar had closed, but...there’s all the others while we’re here.

To say this is a classy place is an understatement. Even at the odd arrival hour (after 3 am) we were greeted at registration with a choice of four small glasses filled with Limoncello sprinkled with thyme, vodka, and thentwo juices. Very tasty. Then off to our rooms.

My favorite was the Limoncello with thyme on the far right.

I snagged a king-sized bed, a TV that magically rose up from the console after pushing a button, and a bathroom that glistened with black granite. Not bad. I knew a few hours sleep would be better for acclimating than sleeping long hours, so I'm hoping to awaken around 7. Just a few hours to take care of the travel headache, perhaps.

Background...

February 15, 2017 by Jane Johnson

This Thailand adventure is 37 years in the making, for it was September 1979 when Alex Hellie, the illustrious groom, came into the world--on Labor Day, no less. Since then Alex has lived in myriad environs (foreign and domestic), amassed an international following, and finally….is settling down. It's no wonder his heart has fallen for lovely Swanhallie (Tak) from Thailand.

The areas we'll be visiting are Bangkok, the Krabi province, and Chaiyaphum where the wedding will take place.

Alex and Tak

Join us in Thailand!

February 14, 2017 by Jane Johnson

Think it's about time to celebrate new beginnings, new adventures, and a long-awaited wedding. FINALLY one of the kids is getting married--and what a celebration to look forward to. The ceremony itself will be held March 12 in rural Thailand, but all of us crazy enough to attend will be arriving in Bangkok on March 3. We'll explore Bangkok and venture down to Krabi before the nuptials. Alex and his bride-to-be are arranging an amazing experience for us. We're all missing Pete, but of course he'll be proudly attending in our hearts as we watch our godson marry a lovely woman.

Leaving Feb. 28, we're flying the 20+ hours to Bangkok, and on March 3, the fest begins. Join me here for adventures. I'll be posting as often as possible with as many photos as possible--just so you can experience this vicariously with us all. Hope you can enjoy along with us!