Back to a Minnesota autumn

The trip back to Minnesota from Rome went without a hitch.  My flights were on time, the customs craziness wasn’t all that crazy, and my ride home was waiting for me in Minneapolis. The next morning when I awoke in my own bed, it was as if I’d simply blinked and the scene, language, and season had all changed. 

The animals didn’t appear to be at all surprised by my sudden reappearance—they were hungry and gave me a “oh, you again” look as they attacked their breakfast that first morning.  I spent several days unpacking.  It’s amazing what a chore that is.  Packing is much more fun.

What I hadn’t anticipated was that the fall colors would still be so vivid.  That was a treat I thought I’d traded for the charm of Rome, but I got the best of both worlds.  And I also was given the gift of lovely warmer temperatures.  No frost yet, so my zinnias still smiled at me.

Zinnias, even in October

So now I’m preparing for winter—already took 24 large bags to the dump (3 loads in the old van). Yesterday’s leaf-free lawn is today again a victim of leaf-overload. I guess when one lives under 15 oak trees, you can’t expect too much.

My biggest joys on this Italy trip were being able to spend time with my sister and to assimilate into her world a bit.  A unique experience and I feel so lucky to have been able to explore more of this planet.

24 leaf bags to the dump—I could see grass again! 

The next day, however... 

Arrivederci Roma!

Sadly, my last day here in Rome, so I wanted to savor one last walk from Testaccio into the center of Rome and back.  Cooler weather--so nice with a gentle breeze.  I walked along Viale Aventino to Circo Massimo and turned left onto Via del Circo Massimo--I’d never walked up this street before and it took me another way to the Vittorio Emanuele II monument (via a view of the Forum) where there’s a museum.  I’d wanted to see the Monet exhibit there. 

The Forum

Feeling pretty proud of myself for discovering a unique route that led me past the Forum, I was stopped in my tracks when the gal at the museum ticket counter said the exhibit begins Oct. 19.  Seriously?  Nothing on the large sign outside the museum indicated a date, so I assumed I’d get to spend some time with Monsieur Monet.  Not to be.

Right?  No date on this Monet exhibit advertisement.  So bummed.  

What I love about Rome is the “chance” encounters you have with art, music, and history here. I like exploring, getting lost, then finding my way again. On a whim I ducked into a courtyard, and found a small peaceful square complete with statues.  And when I entered a church (turned out to be Parricchia S. Maria in Portico in Campitelli), I was amazed at the glorious interior--the main altar gleamed and appeared to feature a decorative box.  The box was also depicted in the painting above the altar.  Interesting.  Haven’t found out the details yet, though.

A quiet spot--just a small square in the midst of a busy city

The box being held in the painting is in the middle of the altar (the white area) 

As I walked, I again shook my head at the traffic--so many cars here.  The little ones (like the Smart) fit crosswise into a parking space.  And now one can download an app and find a nearby “Share n’Go” vehicle to drive.  There are actually several companies here that have this type of car availability.  So if you need a car and don’t have one, check the website, find the nearest car, hop in, and off you go!

See?  These little Smarts are "smart"! 

Download the app and then "share n' go"! This car is electric.

I enjoyed seeing the Tiber one last time, took in the Jewish Ghetto, found a pair of boots for 9,80 euros (about $10) at a great vintage store, and now...off to pack.

Love the Tibur

These memorials are scattered around the Jewish Ghetto. "Here lived...arrested and sent to... ". A humbling memorial.

The Jewish Ghetto is quieter, very unique and interesting. 

Hiking through history

Anne’s friends Terri and Alberto are members of a hiking association. Today Anne and I were invited to take part in a group hike they were doing, and 40+ people showed up--perhaps so many due to the fact the weather was gorgeous and it happened to be “National Hiking Day” in Italy.

We awoke at 5:45 and were on the train north by 7:30.  Terri and Alberto fetched us from the Civita Castella-Magiano train station and we met the others about 20 minutes later.  We were of all ages and outfitted in a wide variety of hiking gear.  I (the novice) simply had my jeans and running shoes Our planned trek was through the ruins of the Faliscan people who lived in the region, and our guide was a local historical expert.

Since the guide spoke only Italian, I can’t give you the particulars, but I can say that the Faliscan tribe lived in the region and buried their dead (along with their slaves) in the graves and caves we explored.  The Faliscans were ancient people of southern Italy who, though Latin in nationality, were really culturally closer to the Etruscans. They occupied the region between the Tiber River and Mt. Ciminus, with present-day Civita Castellana as their capital. Rome began to intrude upon the Faliscans in 437 B.C. and eventually overtook them.  Rome built a nearby bridge (which is still in use today), and used the Faliscan people to widen the roads and pathways for their own use.

The hike began at 10 and lasted until nearly 5.  We walked through some beautiful areas--my favorite was along a creek and through a carved-out rock area that still bears some writing from the Faliscans.  We’d each packed a lunch and ate it in the shade as the gorgeous landscape surrounded us.

Most of the path was gentle, but a few times we had to grab roping and hoist ourselves up and over things.  Some of the grade was challenging but no one really had a problem.  My only issue was not being able to understand the great Italian information the guide gave.

The trip back to Rome was quick (we took the fast train from Orte) and after our bike ride the day before (10 miles along Via Appia, 10 miles back) and our 8 mile hike today, I was exhausted!

We took the local (slow) train to Civita Castella-Magiano.  Took nearly 2 hours and these seats were most UNcomfortable!

A quick Caffe Macchiato before the hike

Gearing up

The graves left clues of the Faliscan people.  Check out the "highway" stones--left over from the Romans--very similar to the Via Appia road

Some graves were decorated.  Others had carved facades  

This was taken early on during the hike.  Think we looked more bedraggled after 6 hours and 8 miles...

Our guide spoke only Italian.  Dang!  I missed a lot

2 centuries B.C. and one can still see the outline of the masterful work outside the tombs

Roman bridge

These little cyclemin, along with various ferns, dotted the banks for the stream

Vines hung in many places. 

Our colorful lunch of meat, cheese, fruit, and tomatoes.  I really felt we needed wine, but alas... 

The Faliscans had to widen this area for the Romans.   

If you look closely, you can see some roping we grabbed to help us hoist ourselves up. 

Biking the Via Appia

A perfect fall day in Rome--blue sky, cool wind.  Anne and I biked Via Appia.  What freedom to be biking here, but the traffic getting out of town...oh my!

The Appian Way (Via Appia) was one of the earliest and strategically most important Roman roads. It connected Rome to Brindisi, in southeast Italy. The road is named after Appius Claudius Caecus, the Roman official who began and completed the first section as a military road to the south in 312 BC.

What remains is a surface of cobblestones atop smooth boulders that once were tightly intertwined--and biking was wonderful, but not terribly relaxing.  It was very bumpy and we had to be vigilant for loose rocks, holes, roots, other riders, and pedestrians.  To this day the Via Appia contains the longest stretch of straight road in Europe totaling 62 km, or 39 miles.  Needlesstosay, we only traveled about 10 miles up the road and then the 10 miles back.  Along the way we passed ancient walls and the remains of buildings dotted the landscape.  In the distance we could see the Roman aqueduct.  A grand adventure.

Cobblestones--larger boulders peek through now and then.  A bumpy ride! 

Roman aqueduct in the distance (left) 

All faces on this wall are sad faces.  Makes me wonder what this was

We naturally had to stop for a cappuccino, strudel, and a sandwich

Monti with a touch of Picasso

I wonder if a few years from now Anne and I will shake our heads at our shenanigans in Rome.  Seriously, I left the apartment at noon and just returned at 10 p.m. with a grand day behind me, as well as an evening bottle of wine during happy hour, a beer at the Yellow Bar on our way to dinner, and then another glass of wine at dinner.  Wow.  Eat, DRINK, and be merry!  But here one drinks to enjoy the flavor and those who are gathered around. You drink slowly, purposefully savoring the essence of it all.  So those beverages were appreciated over a number of hours. Delightful.

The weather report had predicted rain, but the day was gorgeously cooler--no rain in sight. Before she set off to work,  Anne and I arranged to meet at 6 for happy hour. I went to the local market for more coffee and some apples for us.  Then I packed my bag with water, a jacket, leggings, umbrella, my book, map and itinerary.  All set to discover a neighborhood I’d been curious about--Monti.

I’ve become pretty adept at riding the metro.  It’s easy once you understand the ticket machines inside the metro stations.  You can choose “English” instructions if you want.  In any event, select the number and type of tickets you want (I usually get 3-4 for future rides), insert the cash (bills or coins), and the tickets drop out one at a time along with your change.  Then you walk to the turnstile, insert the ticket, and it goes through the machine and pops up for you to take with you as the small door opens and you walk through.  You can use this ticket on any metro, bus or tram within 100 minutes, if you’re going in the same direction.

Just follow the steps:  1,2,3 and you're set for the metro

So my metro ride from the Piramide stop to Cavour (in the heart of Monti) took only about 15 minutes.  I exited onto narrow alleyways filled with shops, cafes, and workshops (this area had been the working class neighborhood until it began to transform a few years ago).

Streets of Monti.  Tough to see, but two dog are hanging their heads out to take in what's happening below (between the bird cages)

Anne had told me about Santa Maria degli Angeli--a church near Termini.   It was a public bathing complex (built 298-306 A.D.) that Michelangelo transformed into a church beginning in 1560.   What I found most interesting was the meridian line that Pope Clement XI commissioned to be constructed in 1702 by the astronomer, mathematician, and archaeologist Francesco Bianchini.  The pope’s purpose was threefold:  he wanted to check the Gregorian reformation of the calendar for accuracy, predict the exact date of Easter, and (of course) give Rome a meridian line as important as the one Cassini had just built in Bologna.  Such one-up-manship. Anyway, I found the place fascinating and enjoyed listening as the organ was being tuned.

The sun shines through this tiny hole

The light from the hole indicates the date, etc. on this meridian

I’d seen that a Picasso exhibit was being held in a Monti gallery, so I stopped in for a few hours to enjoy the collection focusing on Picasso’s life from 1915-1925 when he traveled to Rome and Naples, taking in several trips to Pompeii, which influenced his art.  He traveled with poet Jean Cocteau and the composer Igor Stravinsky, following Ballet Russe. I never knew about that Picasso designed sets and costumes for several ballets.  The well-chosen pieces of the exhibit were intriguing.

Picasso's son Paul  

Love this energy and enthusiasm  

I think there are days most women must feel like this

This shot is one I took from a film they were showing of Picasso's set design and stage of the ballet Parade

On a corner in Monti.   

My lunch in Monti

Rome's rooftops

Then off to the church San Pietro in Vincoli (St. Peter in Chains).  Michelangelo had been commissioned to design the tomb of the cardinal Giuliano della Rovere, but a series of political and financial issues led to this structure being installed in this church instead.  On the structure, Moses sits in the middle with the Ten Commandments. The horns you see on Moses's head are the result of an incorrect translation of the Old Testament. In the Middle Ages it was thought that the original scripture said that the head of Moses was “horned.” Now we know that the text actually says that his face “radiated.”  Ah...yes.  We know how things can be mis-translated and mis-interpreted, don’t we?  

The church is named for the chains that bound St. Peter.  In the fifth century, these were presented to Pope Leo I, who placed them in this church, together with the chains that had supposedly held St. Peter while he was in the Mamertine prison in Rome. According to a medieval legend, the two chains then miraculously joined together. The chains are now prominently displayed in a golden reliquary near the altar.

Look closely and you'll see Moses's horns

The fused chains

Anne and I did meet at 6 for happy hour with her friend Julia; then on our way to dinner in Testaccio, we ran into colleagues at a bar (and of course joined them for a beer) before enjoying pasta at a fun wine-filled cafe.  It began to sprinkle and by the time we got home, we were refreshed from walking arm-in-arm under the umbrella.  

Julia and Anne after a hard day at work

This place is so crowded on Friday nights that it's hard to walk through it.  So...we stayed and had a beer

Ayca, Anne and me at the Yellow Bar

Yep, a happy place

Anne ordering at the restaurant with a long wine list

Hitting Rome's highlights

I’d booked a Galleria Borghese tour, thinking a tour guide would better explain the works I was seeing.  My first challenge of the day, though, was to get to this place by the 9 a.m. meeting time.  The galleria is located within the Borghese gardens--at least a 90 minute walk from Anne’s place, and no metro stops are very near--so I researched a bit and found I could take bus 910 from Termini, the central train station and a metro stop 

I left Anne’s place at 7:30--got the blue line to Termini from the Piramide station and in 15 minutes found myself in a confusion of busses with all sorts of numbers EXCEPT for 910.  I asked several people where I might find this bus, but some simply shrugged their shoulders--others pointed, but offered no help beyond indicating a vague direction. After a good 20 minutes of my futile search, I decided to follow the bus line for 910 toward the Repubblica metro stop--maybe there would be fewer bus choices and I’d find my bus.  So...onward.

I’d downloaded the bus map onto my phone and finally figured out that the 910 bus stopped at few places on its way to the Borghese area.  So I kept walking, thinking I’d find a bus stop that indicated a 910 bus stopped there.  I walked...walked.. walked and finally, viola! a bus stop with the number 910 came into view.  So I stood there and waited.  Waited.  Waited.  It was about 8:30 by this point and I had but 30 minutes to find the galleria in the midst of the Borghese Gardens, and I wasn’t even in the gardens themselves yet.

FINALLY! 

My map showed I wasn’t far from the gardens, so I decided to abandon my bus stop and take off...only to see number 910 ramble on past 30 seconds later.  I’d just missed it, and the fact I’m so impatient at times made me shake my head.  But wait--that bus stopped just up the block, people were getting off, if I ran, I could hop on...and so I did!

I actually congratulated myself on my sprint and ability to catch this elusive bus. BUT the joke was again on me--I had no idea when to get off the bus. I’d expected tons of people to exit it when it got to the Galleria stop, and apparently few did, for I rode PAST the Galleria stop.  When I finally asked which stop would take me to the Galleria, several people pointed behind us.  So...hopped off at the next stop and did my fast-walk back to the gardens, then through them to the Galleria, arriving just at the right time.  Whew!  But honestly, isn’t this what travel is all about?  You gotta be flexible and laugh at yourself!

So...the Galleria.  I’d heard about the famous Bernini sculptures here and also knew he’d been “discovered” at a very young age.  His father had been a sculptor and other artists saw the kid’s talent.  One of his first sculptures (done at either the age of 7 or 15--they’re not sure) is on display there.

A group of 16, we all congregated and received our earpieces and transmitters to hang around our necks.  Then we had to check all bags at the door.  Since photos are allowed (no flash), I carried my phone and billfold. 

The gallery was actually much smaller than I’d envisioned.  The first floor we saw featured sculptures and the second focused on paintings.  And the Bernini--oh my.  Bernini produced works in the Galleria for Cardinal Borghese, his first important patron. Bernini completed the sculptures in the Borghese Galleria between 1622-25, a full hundred years after Michelangelo.  So Bernini’s work is considered baroque, not high renaissance as is Michelangelo’s work. Bernini revolutionized the field of sculpture, for he dealt with intense, emotionally charged moments.  He was concerned with the expressions of action and emotion in rather violent episodes.

The floor is various colors of marble.  Lovely

Notice how Persephone pushing away with her hand and resisting Pluto.  Bernini showed action, emotion

I was so impressed by this guy’s talent, especially his sculpture  in the Emperor’s Hall.  This shows Pluto and Persephone.  He has caught her and is dragging her to the underworld (symbolized by the three-headed dog). Pluto’s hand is grasping Persephone’s thigh and Bernini has used such skill that one forgets this is stone.  Her thigh is seems elastic, so realistic I couldn’t help but stare.  Such realism.

See the realism in how Pluto grabs Persephone?  Check out that grip on her thigh! Egads.

Bernini’s David is so different from Michelangelo’s David who appears to be such a calm figure.  Bernini’s David is in action at the moment of battle.  One can see the knit of his brow, his concentration, as he’s about to fling his slingshot. David’s armor lies on the ground, showing he needs only faith to defeat Goliath.  His weight is on one foot, his arm about to launch the shot that would kill Goliath. Again, Bernini’s emotion and realism are amazing.

David in action

The last Bernini sculpture I saw was of Apollo and Daphne.  Daphne had wanted to remain pure, but Apollo, a victim of cupid’s arrow, falls in love with her and wants her.  As she’s caught, she cries out to her father who transforms her into a laurel tree so Apollo won’t be able to have her.  The point of action Bernini captures here is the moment Daphne is caught and consequently begins to transform--her fingers become leaves and branches and her toes become roots as her body begins to be encased by the tree trunk.  An amazing moment in time as her hair flings, the cloth drapes and flutters.  Wow.  Amazing that all this came from stone.

Apollo and Daphne

Her fingers are transforming.  Notice the movement of her hair

Toes transforming into roots of the laurel tree 

Bernini's self-portraits at three different ages

Bernini's first sculpture when he was just a kid

I also loved the ceilings, all painted with murals.  The Caravaggios were lovely.  But I guess I was a bit disappointed in our guide.  She chose only a few pieces to discuss in each room, and I’m sure there were prized pieces I missed.  This gal’s accent was strong, always ending every word in an “ah” that I have to admit really got to me by the end of the tour.

The ceiling in one of the gallery's rooms

Suddenly at 11 am, two hours into the tour, a loudspeaker announced we all needed to leave.  What?  So very odd, I thought, but I guess from 9-11 a.m. is for visitors with guides and at 11 new groups with guides enter, thus assuring not too many are in the gallery at once.

So the tour continued outside and the guide showed us some of the gardens. The pace was a bit too slow for me, so I parted and headed into the heart of Rome.

Galleria Borghese

The temp was rising, but in the shade, the day was perfect.  I stuck to the side of the street that was shaded, finally coming to the Spanish Steps where I’d planned on eating a small sandwich and having some bottled iced tea.  I found a spot in the shade, sat my weary butt down, pulled out a sandwich and...was approached by a dude with an official badge who told me there was to be no eating or drinking on the Spanish Steps. Really!  I was bummed--this had seemed like a perfect lunch stop.  Oh well.  Found another piazza near the Valentino store and sat on a flower urn and enjoyed the Valentino windows and ornate portico.

The Spanish Step--don't eat your lunch here! 

Valentio's ornate glass portico

Then on to the Trevi Fountain which had been under renovation last time I’d been to Rome two years ago.  I threw in my three coins, but then was told by yet another official that I couldn’t stand where I was standing or sit where I wanted to sit.  These officials had whistles and I felt like I was back at the local pool with all the whistle blasts.  BUT...the fountain was lovely and I took a few minutes to enjoy before moving on the the Pantheon area.

Newly renovated Trevi Fountain

This is always a very crowded place! 

I’ve decided this area near Campo de’ Fiori is my favorite shopping area.  I browsed the market, the shops, wandered, got lost/found, etc.  Lovely.  I felt good that I’d hit three of Rome’s highlights in an hour.  Check it off the list!

The walk home was again a lesson in finding the shady side of the street.  Some structures appear to be falling apart, while others are obviously tended to with care.  Funny how acclimated I am becoming to my daily routes to/from the Testaccio area!

Well kept home in Trastevere  

Blogging with beer(s)  and deep-fried rice thingies called Suppli. Delicious! 

Tuscany in a day (Day 6)

I’d listened to friends rave about Tuscany, read books about living there, visualized it in my mind.  But never having experienced it myself, I decided on a bus tour of the place.  I’d booked this before I left the U.S., putting absolute faith in the 10-day weather forecast at the time of booking.  And it all turned out like this:

Fabulous!  I dragged myself out of bed at 5:30, got to the nearby metro stop by 6:30, zoomed on the blue line to Termini, and then changed to the red line until I got to Flaminio.  Then Piazza de Popolo lay before me just as the sun was rising. Love Rome like this--cool and nearly empty, something one doesn’t see very often!

Piazza del Popolo just as the sun is rising

​Travelers need to pay attention, for several bus trips and groups leave from this point. It’s a huge piazza, and I quickly bypassed the Pompeii tour group that had gathered and waited instead for the Tuscany guide, along with like-minded tourists--4 of whom I realized were from the Twin Cities. As it turned out, Minnesota was well represented. In a busload of 48, six of us were from the Gopher state. Go figure…

​So the tour was to last all day with stops in two cities, an abbey, and lunch at a winery. After an hour of traveling north, we pulled in for a potty stop, and the place had a huge gift shop and coffee/wine bar. I had my first cappuccino of the day, along with a croissant. Yummy.

A great breakfast, no? 

After another 45 minutes or so, we pulled into Montepulciano (I remembered it as “multiple-chi-an-o”) and a guide showed us this town of 5000 from the medieval period.  She raved about the “beauuuuutifullll” cathedral, which looked to me like something one might build in the sand at the beach--ordinary, square, and plain.  But you have to realize the era in which it was built, and the beauty is not in being ornate.  The prized wine here is Vino Nobile di Montepolciano, though we didn’t have an opportunity try any.

Lush valley near Montepulciono

The "beauuuuutifull" medieval church

​This town challenged some due to its incline and eventual decent--steep, steep streets. One gal on crutches elected to stay down below and I realized again how non-handicap accessible much of Europe is. But the views were spectacular and I loved the latte-colored earth and the tall, narrow cyprus.

​Then on to the Sant’ Antimo Abbey near Montalcino. This abbey had fallen into ruin and is being renovated. The olive trees near here were ancient as I could tell by their gnarly trunks.

Sant' Antimo Abbey

So nice to light candles and send a prayer

Gotta love this olive tree.  If only it could talk... 

I thought the highlight of the day was the lunch served  in the midst a winery’s barrels.  We had three courses, sampled five wines, and I bonded with some lovely people.  Food and wine bring that out in us, right?  A great key to chatting, sharing, and general merriment.

Lunch was waiting for us

The antipasti

This is  "pici" pasta--of the area.  (I think it looks like Chef Boyardee!)

The five wines we tasted.  Lovely white, great chianti, and two reds that would be good with meat.  The dessert wine was strong for some, so my newly formed group of drinking buddies and I didn't let any of it go to waste

Our final stop was Pienza--created (or renovated) by Pope Pius II.  This  was his birth town and he decided to give it a facelift.  The town is known for pecorino cheese (delicious) and Bruello di Montepuliciano wine.  One fun incident was that a Russian film crew was using a piazza here to film a movie titled The Sin--something about Michelangelo.  We had to be “quiet on the set” and waited until we got the nod before walking freely near and around that piazza.

Pienza

A bit of gelato.  Can you tell we'd just had wine with lunch?  Haha

The film crew.  The guy sitting down must've been chilled--he was wrapped up until the shoot began

When the film began to roll, this guy got up and hobbled off with his "crutch."  I thought I could do the same for a lot less than they were probably paying this guy.

Check out the "blood" on the corner

I know, I know...but I just had to show you the severed head on the prop table. 

Here, this lovely shot to help you recover

Our guide was knowledgeable, my fellow travelers fun, and the entire day proved to be delightful.  I can see why this Umbrian area is a favorite of so many.  Cincin!

Day 5--Yes, still roaming (Rome-Ing.)

Day 5 in Rome was relaxing, though I still walked miles...loved it. After a quick stop at the local market, I met Anne for lunch at FAO. I passed through security, of course, and Anne needed to fetch me at the entrance, but once I had my visitor’s pass, she showed me the massive structure. Fun to see her office, but also the wonderful view from the top of the eight-floor FAO-UN building. The cafeteria was a lively place filled with a melody of world languages. We ran into some of her friends and colleagues and I so enjoyed the energy and vibe of the crowd. Here were the movers and shakers of the Food/Agriculture world policies.

Hard at work--Fun to see where Anne spends most of her day. 

View from FAO north.  Palatine HIll and Circo Massimo on the left.

​Then I decided to stroll the streets, look for leather goods, see the Pantheon again, and stop for wine on Piazza Navona. The Pinot Grigio there was yummy, and somehow I didn’t mind the price--the view of the Bernini art was worth it. All major tourist sites (and the Jewish Ghetto) are guarded by the military. What I noticed this trip, is that the soldiers are now guarding with their weapons in full view, their fingers at the ready. Previously I’d noticed only their presence. Disheartening.

The sun shines through the Pantheon's 30 foot "oculus."  This beam of light moves with the sun. This dome is the world's largest unreinforced concrete dome.  

I put the camera on "selfie" mode and took this at the center of the Pantheon--looking directly up

One of the three main structures in Piazza Navona

Not terribly crowded today, the Piazza Novana delights your senses. 

I love escaping into churches to be quiet and think.  This is Santa Cecilia in Trastevere.  The Stefano Maderno sculpture of St. Cecilia (1600) shows her with a veil over her head--a martyr to her faith.  

Later Anne and I met a Brazilian couple near their home in Garbatella for dinner. Delicious Italian food. We were “early” eaters--sitting down just after 8. The husband works at FAO with Anne; he and his wife have become good friends. 

Off the tourist path, this Garbatella place is where Italians eat.   Truly, why would one ever cook?  It's way too much fun to explore the food/wine places.

Fettuccini with sesame seeds and black pepper.  Luscious 

Day 4--A trek to Orvieto

Many of you know that between Rome and Florence to the north lies Orvieto, a hilltop village so quaint and charming that few can resist visiting it.  What’s great about traveling in September here is that the weather is delightful and the throng of travelers has lessened. So what do the two Kepple girls do on a September Sunday in Rome?  Hop a train for the 75-minute ride north to Orvieto.

The weather report warned of light rain and cooler temps, so we were prepared, each of us with a light backpack stuffed with what we might need--water, Kind bars, extra sweater, umbrella, and a power charger, just in case my phone needed a boost.

What follows here are the photos of the day--from the train ride past other hilltop villages to the fabulous 3-course lunch, the majestic Duomo, the underground cave tour, and finally the wine tasting of four delectable Orvieto wines.

Orvieto was little damaged by the tumult of WWII, so the town captivates visitors with 13th century delight.  With no more room at the top of the volcanic rock it's built on, the town has overflowed to the valley below, but this area is unappealing and we totally ignored it.  Instead, once we arrived in Orvieto, we paid 1,30 euros for a 3-minute funicular ride up to a wonderful view and town.

I realize on days like this that it’s so good Anne and I walk at a similar pace--that is, we trek together quite quickly or simply saunter when a sight or panorama intrigues us.  So it was in Orvieto.  Initially the panorama captivated us, then the small shops and even the myriad cats lolly-gagging throughout the town (some wanting attention) made us smile.

The Duomo, however, is the centerpiece of the place as the photos show.  But I also loved the alleys (one adorned with wooden animals and wall art), the minute shops, and interesting people milling about.  We heard more American English spoken here than in Rome itself, and we took an English-narrated tour of the caves beneath the town.

Let me just say a bit about the caves--the volcanic tufo (actually from the same volcano that covered Pompeii) on which the town is built, allowed for each home to hand-dig its own underground cave for purposes varying from olive oil production and storage, to pigeon-nesting, to even WWII shelters.  A cave’s purpose varied according to its location.  Those on the north side of the city with no outside access were perfect for wine storage, as the temperature did not vary.  Those in the south with outside access housed pigeons for food, and those caves large enough for olive presses, produced and stored oil for the city.  In this way the townspeople worked together providing all that was needed.

Light sprinkles fell in the afternoon, but following the cave tour, we took shelter under an umbrella to sip wine.  I noticed my phone needed recharging and felt pretty proud of myself for packing an additional charger--only to realize I’d left the cord for it at the apartment.  Just another reminder that often the joke is on you. Just shake your head, smile, and move on...

A wonderful day trip for us--more adventures will follow!

View from dirty train window of nearby hilltop towns

Even puppies ride up the funicular (see him?) 

That's me way over yonder

Loved the "yard" of this place--see the little kids' slide in the middle? 

I love how the older generation values being vital and active.  So many were out and about

The older and younger generations.  Love this

Such a cute alley

Notice the striped walls?  Anne had on a striped shirt and I had a striped cardigan.  We matched the Duomo! 

The ceiling in one of the chapels

Our lunch appetizers--Anne had a Parmesan flan and I had bruschetta.  Yes, we shared... 

In front of a wine shop

The alley with the wooden animals

See the olive trees?  The grape vines?  The castle-like structure? Farming here is so different

Into the caves--a re-built olive press

Don't be fooled--electric lights here are for us visitors.  Center here is deep well

Nesting areas for pigeons--notice the symmetry?  Pigeon is still on the menu here. 

We sampled two red and two whites.  So fun

Roaming (Rome-Ing)--Day 3

Following the wonderful evening walk around Rome the night before, Anne and I slept in a bit. I wrote some, Anne ran into work for an hour, but then we wanted to support our SOH team members by donning our SAVE OUR HOSPITAL shirts and photographing ourselves in front of the colosseum to post on Facebook. What an international flair we’ve brought to this grassroots movement--haha.

Roman gladiators fight to keep a full-service acute care hospital in Albert Lea, Minnesota!!! 

Since the weather was perfect, Anne and I decided to shop a bit--walking into the city center from the colosseum.  We were a bit bummed, however, to find that for some unexplained reason, a large number of shops were closed. Fun to browse anyway, but of course we needed some gelato to sweeten us up after a disappointing excursion.

A bit of street art--using dried beans as one element

Love these little architectural arches

And there was ANOTHER entire case to choose from, too! 

It's fall here, too--walking along the Tiber (Tevere).  Love how the tree branches arch over the walkway

Around 5 pm we trekked home, showered, and then walked around the corner to one of Anne's favorite spots for a quick dinner.  Delicious.  Then we walked 30 minutes back to the Trastevere bar where we’d seen Anne’s friends practicing on Thursday night. Saturday night was an actual “performance” and many danced.  Very fun.  But the night wasn’t over.

We had dinner at this local spot near Anne's apartment.  A food tour stopped in.  Farm-table affair

Asparagus risotto with some nice wine.  Doesn't get much better than this! 

After an hour at that bar, another 35 minute walk in the opposite direction took us to a fabulous club where Ayca (another FAO friend of Anne’s) was singing.  This gal is phenomenal.  We danced up a storm--actually the first time in years I was moving around the dance floor and I Ioved every minute of it.  Anne’s friends and colleagues are fabulous--always involved in living life to the fullest, enjoying it to the max.  They often do things together and again I felt so privileged to feel a part of the bunch.

Ayca and her band

Such a rush to let loose

Day 2--my roam in Rome

Take my advice:  never eat yummy coffee yogurt late in the day--it'll keep you up all night.  So after the excitement of the Trastevere the night before, I was wide awake and didn’t fall asleep for hours. But by 8:15 Anne was up and going, and I soon decided to have a cup of coffee with her before she left for the day. I was focused on finding my way to the Protestant Cemetery where Keats, Shelley, and Goethe are buried, but I also wanted to browse through Eataly again--both not far from Anne’s apartment.

I walked 34,646 steps from 10 am-midnight, changing shoes three times to assure comfort. So what does this number of steps look like within just a few neighborhoods of Rome ?

On my way to Eataly, two gals stopped me and asked if I could point them toward Via Appia. They’d wanted to take the bus to this lovely area, but with a planned day-long bus strike, bussing there wasn’t an option. Feeling pretty proud of myself, I whipped out my map, indicated the best foot route and sent them on their way. Little did they know that I’d had the same question two years ago when I was here and consequently knew the way. So proud of myself--felt like such a Roman resident, albeit a fake one. Haha.

For some reason the massive, impressive Eataly I’d shopped at during my last visit didn’t seem so impressive this time--perhaps due to the availability of all at the smaller markets around town. Fun to see and experience anyway.

Found the nearby Protestant Cemetery whose entrance was hidden down a narrow street. It was constructed in 1732 to provide burials for Rome’s non-Catholic residents. Countless European and North American poets, artists, and scholars settled in Rome around that time. You might wonder why anyone would visit a cemetery, but this is a quiet oasis and some of my favorites--Keats, Shelley and, for some reason, Goethe--are buried here. I loved walking through the narrow paths and reading the gravestones, some engraved with not only names and dates, but also with poems and narratives of the person’s life.

Just opposite the Keats grave I was able take in the Pyramid, a focal point of the area--even the metro stop is named after it. This is an actual pyramid constructed among the Roman ruins. It’s the tomb of the wealthy magistrate Caius Cestius Epulone and was built just before 12 B.C., the year of his death and shortly after the Roman Empire’s conquest of Egypt, at a time when anything to do with the culture of that new province was extremely fashionable in Rome.

Protestant Cemetery  

I found my way back to the market I’d enjoyed the day before, had a yummy sandwich, and then trekked back to the apartment for a quick rest and change of shoes.

Great sandwich at the market

I’m finding my schedule shifting here--getting up later and staying out later. So at 3 pm, I decided it was high time to cross the Tiber and do some shopping. I wanted to view as many leather stores as possible (purses, anyone?) and just enjoy the fashion choices, food choices and people watching. I wasn’t disappointed. Found some of my favorite tops for as little as 20 euros and got some purse ideas.

Walking next to the Tiber with St. Peter's in the distance

By 6 I was back at the apartment for a shower, another change of shoes and off to meet Anne in front of her workplace. We crossed the Colosseum’s plaza, found a tiny alley leading to a restaurant where friends Carole and Kelly had made 7:30 dinner reservations. It was their last night in Rome, and how could we not celebrate our simultaneous Roman holidays? Such a wonderful gift to experience Rome, and crossing paths with friends from back home was simply delightful. Excellent food and company. Grazie, you two!

So many menu choices

Yummy veal! 

We parted around 9:30 and Anne and I strolled home.  Rome at night is gorgeous.  Monuments and ruins are lit, the streets are filled with people savoring the sights.  We smiled at the Turtle Fountain and enjoyed a glass of wine nearby.  Then the 20 minute walk along the river got us home around midnight.  No wonder I can’t stop smiling

At night pictures are projected onto Roman ruins

Downtown Rome--Ruins lit at night

Piazza Venezia

We laughed, thinking it looked like this guy was viewing his cellphone

Fun fashion we saw through nighttime windows

Check out the turtles atop the fountain

Night walk home along the Tiber

Day One--Roaming in Rome

Awaking in Rome to bright sunshine and the promise of 75 degrees.  Can it get any better than this?  I fell into bed last night, sleeping in the loft of my sister’s apartment--so comfy.  This morning Anne and I shared a cup of coffee before she took off to work at FAO.  Then after a shower and some planning, I was off to the market and exploring the Testaccio neighborhood.

Ok, the market.  Oh my.  Guess I’d pictured a farmers’ market type venue, but this was a covered area with multiple stalls--several dozen.  Vendors sold flowers, clothing, jewelry, pasta, olive oil, pesto, meats, cheeses, veggies, fruits, coffee, books, purses--a feast for the eyes, ears, nose.  I was so excited to see it all that I had to speak to myself in a calm voice--”Okay, Jane...breathe.  Slow down.  Look carefully.  Don’t hyperventilate. Just enjoy”  Such fun stuff.

Pasta anyone? 

​I’d wanted to find Keats’s and Shelley’s graves in the Protestant Cemetery, but time didn’t allow. I met Anne at Rosso across the street from FAO for a great lunch (got the “medium” buffet plate with four choices for 10 Euros).

Then back to apartment to switch into something cooler.  The wifi kicked in there and Carole/Kelly called--could we meet for a glassa?  Naturally! How often do good friends happen to be in Rome at the same time as you are?  So beer and a walk to the Orange Garden--delightful.  We’ll meet again tomorrow night for dinner. 

Orange Garden in Aventino neighborhood

From the Orange Garden

OK, so the thing is...the adventures didn't end until nearly midnight.  Anne arrived home from work  around 7:30 and we walked to Trastevere to hear Francy, a friend from FAO, play samba music with a group.  Anne and I drank several Italian beers, listened to the fun beat for several hours.  Then walking home at 10 pm, found a shoe store still open and we each purchased a pair of shoes--on sale, even. The excitement never ends! 

Trastevere neighborhood at night--many cafes, bars, and shoe stores stay open until midnight!

Francy (second from left) and his crew

I prefer Peroni--Anne likes Moretti

The leather is luscious! 

To Roam (Rome)!

Anne’s and my Air France flight Mpls-Paris (and eventually Rome) took off just after 7:30 pm, so we arranged a ride to the airport, leaving town at 3 pm. The trip was quick, unencumbered by detours and traffic. Check-in was likewise easy, and Anne and I secured seats for the 10 hour flight. Because the plane was only half full, the clerk suggested we each choose a window seat--the seat next to us would probably remain empty, and we’d have a roomier ride. So it was! Anne and I were mere rows apart, and thank heavens for the extra room, as the seats were particularly tiny--especially when the seat in front of you was reclined--literally in-your-face.

We needed a pre-boarding beer and burger, of course.

 I was all set for the hours until our Paris stop with my ipad, book, headset for the onboard movies.  We quickly noticed the plane seemed ancient--still had ash trays. And the fuzzy movie screen was a mere 4x6 inches.  The movie selection wasn’t very good, but I did manage to find and watch Loving, something I had wanted to see. 

One thing I noticed right away was the plane’s stewards.  Instead of women catering to travelers, efficient guys ran the show.  First order of business was something to drink, of course, and the white French wine was light and delicious.  Then came dinner (ho-hum chicken--but with a yummy chocolate mousse cake and "Another wine, Madam?")

Soon after, the lights dimmed, and we were asked to close the window shades. Following my selected movie, I was able to sleep a bit, and when the lights came on for breakfast, I couldn’t believe so much time had passed.

After landing in a foggy Paris, there was no need to change terminals, but still the trek to our next gate was long, as was our wait to go through immigration.  Apparently the computer for the only official on duty wasn’t working well, and we yawned our way through the line.

Once in Rome, our pre-arranged driver grabbed our suitcases and rolled them across the street to his Mercedes van.  Classical music played in the parking ramp, the sky was cloudless, the air fresh.  Perfection.

Just 20 minutes later we pulled up to Anne’s place--a third-floor apartment in the Testaccio district of Rome. A darling apartment.  We changed, rested a bit, then met friends of Anne’s for a drink and ventured off to a salsa dance class before dropping into bed.  Honestly, fun or what?

Home in Rome! 

First night in Rome--and salsa lessons? 

Packing up

So I broke the number one travel rule and bought shoes for the trip to Rome only a day before taking off with my sister Anne.  Anne is living in Rome temporarily while working at the UN’s FAO.  These shoes my friend Linda had spotted on the sale rack, and because they fit, were named the #1 travel shoe by USA Today, and were just what I was looking for, I decided to snatch them up.

Packing--it’s difficult to know what to pack for 14 days in the Italian fall.  I scoured advice on the web, was aware it could be rainy, so decided to toss in a raincoat. Temps would be in the 70s, so I jammed leggings, long-sleeved & short-sleeved t-shirts, 2 light sweaters and multiple over-shirts into my suitcase, along with sandals, my Toms, running shoes, the new Taos walking shoes.

I changed my onboard ensemble three times, finally deciding on black knit pants, a longer black knit top, an over-sweater, scarf and black boots (slip-ons in case I needed to take these off during airport security).  In my carry-on I always have an extra light windbreaker and blanket--have been cold on the plane one too many times.  Final suitcase weight--40 lbs.  Perfect.

Packing up

Many of you know that my wonderful sister Anne lives in Rome and that she came to Minnesota to accept a well-deserved Distinguished Alumni award from the Albert Lea Education Foundation. Now I'm flying back with her, and while she's hard at work at the UN's FAO, I'll be exploring more of Rome and Italy on my own.  I've set up a day trip to Tuscany and a tour of the Borghese Gallery, but beyond that...I'm simply going to explore the neighborhoods of Rome.  Since I've done Rome 101, this trip will perhaps be a more relaxing, intimate view of this spectacular city. Tag along if you wish!