Hitting Rome's highlights — this encore life

I’d booked a Galleria Borghese tour, thinking a tour guide would better explain the works I was seeing. My first challenge of the day, though, was to get to this place by the 9 a.m. meeting time. The galleria is located within the Borghese gardens--at least a 90 minute walk from Anne’s place, and no metro stops are very near--so I researched a bit and found I could take bus 910 from Termini, the central train station and a metro stop

I left Anne’s place at 7:30--got the blue line to Termini from the Piramide station and in 15 minutes found myself in a confusion of busses with all sorts of numbers EXCEPT for 910. I asked several people where I might find this bus, but some simply shrugged their shoulders--others pointed, but offered no help beyond indicating a vague direction. After a good 20 minutes of my futile search, I decided to follow the bus line for 910 toward the Repubblica metro stop--maybe there would be fewer bus choices and I’d find my bus. So...onward.

I’d downloaded the bus map onto my phone and finally figured out that the 910 bus stopped at few places on its way to the Borghese area. So I kept walking, thinking I’d find a bus stop that indicated a 910 bus stopped there. I walked...walked.. walked and finally, viola! a bus stop with the number 910 came into view. So I stood there and waited. Waited. Waited. It was about 8:30 by this point and I had but 30 minutes to find the galleria in the midst of the Borghese Gardens, and I wasn’t even in the gardens themselves yet.

My map showed I wasn’t far from the gardens, so I decided to abandon my bus stop and take off...only to see number 910 ramble on past 30 seconds later. I’d just missed it, and the fact I’m so impatient at times made me shake my head. But wait--that bus stopped just up the block, people were getting off, if I ran, I could hop on...and so I did!

I actually congratulated myself on my sprint and ability to catch this elusive bus. BUT the joke was again on me--I had no idea when to get off the bus. I’d expected tons of people to exit it when it got to the Galleria stop, and apparently few did, for I rode PAST the Galleria stop. When I finally asked which stop would take me to the Galleria, several people pointed behind us. So...hopped off at the next stop and did my fast-walk back to the gardens, then through them to the Galleria, arriving just at the right time. Whew! But honestly, isn’t this what travel is all about? You gotta be flexible and laugh at yourself!

So...the Galleria. I’d heard about the famous Bernini sculptures here and also knew he’d been “discovered” at a very young age. His father had been a sculptor and other artists saw the kid’s talent. One of his first sculptures (done at either the age of 7 or 15--they’re not sure) is on display there.

A group of 16, we all congregated and received our earpieces and transmitters to hang around our necks. Then we had to check all bags at the door. Since photos are allowed (no flash), I carried my phone and billfold.

The gallery was actually much smaller than I’d envisioned. The first floor we saw featured sculptures and the second focused on paintings. And the Bernini--oh my. Bernini produced works in the Galleria for Cardinal Borghese, his first important patron. Bernini completed the sculptures in the Borghese Galleria between 1622-25, a full hundred years after Michelangelo. So Bernini’s work is considered baroque, not high renaissance as is Michelangelo’s work. Bernini revolutionized the field of sculpture, for he dealt with intense, emotionally charged moments. He was concerned with the expressions of action and emotion in rather violent episodes.

The floor is various colors of marble.  Lovely — The floor is various colors of marble. Lovely

Notice how Persephone pushing away with her hand and resisting Pluto.  Bernini showed action, emotion — Notice how Persephone pushing away with her hand and resisting Pluto. Bernini showed action, emotion

I was so impressed by this guy’s talent, especially his sculpture in the Emperor’s Hall. This shows Pluto and Persephone. He has caught her and is dragging her to the underworld (symbolized by the three-headed dog). Pluto’s hand is grasping Persephone’s thigh and Bernini has used such skill that one forgets this is stone. Her thigh is seems elastic, so realistic I couldn’t help but stare. Such realism.

See the realism in how Pluto grabs Persephone?  Check out that grip on her thigh! Egads. — See the realism in how Pluto grabs Persephone? Check out that grip on her thigh! Egads.

Bernini’s David is so different from Michelangelo’s David who appears to be such a calm figure. Bernini’s David is in action at the moment of battle. One can see the knit of his brow, his concentration, as he’s about to fling his slingshot. David’s armor lies on the ground, showing he needs only faith to defeat Goliath. His weight is on one foot, his arm about to launch the shot that would kill Goliath. Again, Bernini’s emotion and realism are amazing.

The last Bernini sculpture I saw was of Apollo and Daphne. Daphne had wanted to remain pure, but Apollo, a victim of cupid’s arrow, falls in love with her and wants her. As she’s caught, she cries out to her father who transforms her into a laurel tree so Apollo won’t be able to have her. The point of action Bernini captures here is the moment Daphne is caught and consequently begins to transform--her fingers become leaves and branches and her toes become roots as her body begins to be encased by the tree trunk. An amazing moment in time as her hair flings, the cloth drapes and flutters. Wow. Amazing that all this came from stone.

Her fingers are transforming.  Notice the movement of her hair — Her fingers are transforming. Notice the movement of her hair

Toes transforming into roots of the laurel tree

Bernini's self-portraits at three different ages

Bernini's first sculpture when he was just a kid

I also loved the ceilings, all painted with murals. The Caravaggios were lovely. But I guess I was a bit disappointed in our guide. She chose only a few pieces to discuss in each room, and I’m sure there were prized pieces I missed. This gal’s accent was strong, always ending every word in an “ah” that I have to admit really got to me by the end of the tour.

The ceiling in one of the gallery's rooms

Suddenly at 11 am, two hours into the tour, a loudspeaker announced we all needed to leave. What? So very odd, I thought, but I guess from 9-11 a.m. is for visitors with guides and at 11 new groups with guides enter, thus assuring not too many are in the gallery at once.

So the tour continued outside and the guide showed us some of the gardens. The pace was a bit too slow for me, so I parted and headed into the heart of Rome.

The temp was rising, but in the shade, the day was perfect. I stuck to the side of the street that was shaded, finally coming to the Spanish Steps where I’d planned on eating a small sandwich and having some bottled iced tea. I found a spot in the shade, sat my weary butt down, pulled out a sandwich and...was approached by a dude with an official badge who told me there was to be no eating or drinking on the Spanish Steps. Really! I was bummed--this had seemed like a perfect lunch stop. Oh well. Found another piazza near the Valentino store and sat on a flower urn and enjoyed the Valentino windows and ornate portico.

The Spanish Step--don't eat your lunch here!

Then on to the Trevi Fountain which had been under renovation last time I’d been to Rome two years ago. I threw in my three coins, but then was told by yet another official that I couldn’t stand where I was standing or sit where I wanted to sit. These officials had whistles and I felt like I was back at the local pool with all the whistle blasts. BUT...the fountain was lovely and I took a few minutes to enjoy before moving on the the Pantheon area.

I’ve decided this area near Campo de’ Fiori is my favorite shopping area. I browsed the market, the shops, wandered, got lost/found, etc. Lovely. I felt good that I’d hit three of Rome’s highlights in an hour. Check it off the list!

The walk home was again a lesson in finding the shady side of the street. Some structures appear to be falling apart, while others are obviously tended to with care. Funny how acclimated I am becoming to my daily routes to/from the Testaccio area!

Blogging with beer(s)  and deep-fried rice thingies called Suppli. Delicious! — Blogging with beer(s) and deep-fried rice thingies called Suppli. Delicious!