Day Five--Firenze (aka Florence!)

Well, only 21,211 steps today--so I guess that's about 10 miles, but hey...we were on the train for a total of nearly 4 hours to and from Florence AND we strolled the Uffizi for almost another 4.  So all in all, our output wasn't that bad for the day. Around 9 am we walked ten minutes to the Ostiense train station by the Pyramid metro stop and boarded a comfy car for the fast train to Florence.  Trains have certainly changed since I took them last (that was 14 years ago)--this one was equipped with wifi, reclining seats, and a well-designed potty. (By the way, you push the yellow "I" to enter and the door slides open.  I struggled to pull it open until the understanding  agent took pity on me. Then you push the "I" inside to lock the door or else someone else might just slide the door open on you). We zipped through the Italian countryside smoothly, landing at Florence's station, eager to explore.  I'd downloaded Rick Steves' app and had copied directions from the station to the Uffizi, so it was a no-brainer finding our way.  

What we didn't expect (and what I hadn't remembered from my only visit to Florence in 1973) was the magnificence of the cathedral (Il Duomo).   We rounded the corner and stoop gaping, not only at the size, but at the color and ornate, intricate design of the marble and adnorning statues.  My pictures don't do it justice, as it was a bit cloudy when I snapped the photos, but do go online and check it out.  Breathtaking. Il Duomo

   The Uffizi tickets I'd booked specified we were to enter the museum at 2:30, so I exchanged the voucher for tickets and we marveled at the Arno and the Ponte Vecchio until our assigned time, and you were NOT allowed to enter until your assigned time.  Again, tour groups drove us crazy, as they clogged the doorways and surrounded works of art en masse, snapping photos (often rudely stepping in front of you).  I saw only one group that cleverly used headsets and listened to their guide who wore a microphone (as on our Israel tour in January).  Otherwise the guide simply spoke aloud and the group had to try to catch all the info while clustering around.      My favorite works are still Botticelli's, and I loved seeing both his and Titian's Venus paintings.  Titian certainly was more sensual and evoked a far different response than Botticelli's.  I was so hoping to see something from Artemisia Gentileschi, and they did have her Judith Slaying Holofernes --so graphic.  I hadn't known anything about her until reading Vreeland's Passion of Artemisia years ago.  Her story has always stuck with me and it was such a privilege to see one of her works.

The museum's special exhibit of Gerrit van Honthorst was a delight ( Gherardo delle Notti: Bizzare Painings and Merry Suppers).  His use of light and his subject matter (The Tooth Puller--oh my!) were fascinating.

   

We ended our tour with a glass of wine at the Uffizi's rooftop cafe. The sun had come out and the pinot grigio was light and refreshing.

Then we wandered the tiny streets, stopped in now and then to check out the leather goods, had a gelato, and eventually made our way back to the station for our 8:30 return to Rome.  Again, the ride was incredibly fast and comfortable. Being able to connect online was a treat.

Emerging from the train in Rome, we simply rounded the corner into another world--that of Eataly.  This gastronomical showcase has been around here since 2012.  Even at 10:30 pm it was hopping with shoppers, families, couples.  Think Trader Joes, Crate and Barrel, Ikea and a touch of Nordstrom sprinkled on top.  Three floors.  A feast for the senses and even after a full day in Florence, Anne had to tear us away, reminding us that we still had to sleep for the trip to Ostia Antica tomorrow.  The website will give you an idea of this playground: Eataly

   We did buy a bit of cheese, some wine and coffee for the weekend, finally making it back to the apartment around midnight.  One would think I'd be exhausted, but I had to force myself to shut off the light after reading a bit. Can't tell you how thankful I am for the energy and joie de vivre I'm feeling here.  Wish you all could feel it, too. The entire trip is a salve for my soul.